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kept in order for 10 cents per rod per annum; and if the wind blows your fence is in no danger; which is quite an item.

"As to fencing stock out or in," my theory is, to fence them in. If I own stock is it not just that I should keep them where they cannot injure my neighbor, who has no stock?

J. G. Swann.-Eight rails high. Black and white oak. Staked and ridered. Costs 75 cents per rod. Stock kept up.

E. A. Reihl.-It is much cheaper to fence stock in than to fence out.

J. Balsiger. My fences are the common rail fence. Having plenty of timber, and not so much capital at my disposal, these were more convenient for me thar board fences. But I am now beginning to plant Osage orange hedges, believing them to be, when well raised and cared for, the most lasting and the cheapest fence; and requiring, when ouce grown, the least labor to keep it in order; and, moreover, serving as sheler belts against the blasting winds. We have in this neighborhood, many, I dare say, perfect hedges of Osage orange.

I think it more advantageous to keep up stock than to let it run at large; though I know that fences, and keeping them in order, are a heavy charge on the farmer, as well for the work they demand, as for the timber they consume, especially rail fences, while board fences are very expensive.

J. Y. Bothwell.-I have half a mile of Osage orange hedge. It is good. I set the plants 18 or 20 inches apart, and cultivate well until they are from an inch to an inch and a quarter in diameter; then lay them down close to the ground. In April, confiue them there by laying rails or poles on them. In July, remove the rails or poles. In one year the fence will turn any decent animal, and in another year it will turn anything. I also have two miles of plank fence, made as follows: Split white oak posts, split square, 7 1-2 feet long; set them top end of timber down. Use post augur 8 inches in diameter. Set the posts 5 feet apart. Use white oak plank 15 feet long, 1 inch by 4; use one nail and six planks to the panel. It makes a good tight fence, and costs $2 per rod here, where it is cheaper than a rail fence, as timber is cheap. The balance of my fencing, 5 1-2 miles, is made of rails, but I shall make no more such. The hedge is the fence; when it cannot be used, the style of plank fence I have described is the cheapest and best I bave found. I do not trim my hedge at all, as I consider it time thrown away, and injurious to the health of the fence. Let it grow; it will not get very high, and if it should, 'twill make a good wind-break against the cold prairie winds. As for side trimming, it does not become very wide, the growth is chiefly upward.

T. Engelmann.-The old worm-fence is slowly disappearing and plank fence taking its place. The cost of constructing a plank fence in this locality is about $1 85 per rod, to-wit:

Two white oak or overcup posts, 25 cents each...
Forty feet fencing at $30 per 1,000 feet.
Nails and labor......

Total.....

8.50

1.20

.15

$1.85

Osage orange hedges have been tried to some extent. With proper care they may afford sufficient protection, but on an average they have failed to give satisfaction.

The land in St. Clair county being nearly all in cultivation-all, except comparatively small bodies of it in the river and creek bottoms-so that in a few localities only, the stock which was running at large was able to maintain a poor existence for a few months of the year, on the so-called common pasture. It has for many years back been a fact, well understood by all farmers, that the benefit derived from that pasture was insignifi cant in comparison to the costs of making and keeping up fences, and efforts have been made to compel the owners of stock, by legal enactment, to keep up the same; but they have always been defeated by the opposition of persons who own no land, or only small

M. A. McConnell.-We have kept Shanghais and Bremens; these are the best for all purposes. They are large, and good layers; take good care of their brood, and are not mischievous about the yards.

H. Pierce.-A cross of Dorking, Shanghai and the common fowl is, I believe, preferred, although the black Spanish is being introduced with fine success.

A. Rankin.—The Domingo fowls are the most profitable to raise, as they are good layers and setters, and good for the table-I mean when left to hunt their own liv. ing. I consider Brahmas, with a little extra care and feed, a very superior fowl.

Rev. G. W. Minier.-Aye, sir! Did you ever know a preacher that did not like poultry and honey? But, let me whisper this in your ear: They prefer eating them to rearing them, and study their peculiarities on the table, rather than running at large, or roaming in quest of the “healing dew."

Although the earth was cursed for man's sake, yet a beneficent Creator has placed within his reach many comforts and blessings, that he may enjoy by making use of the means to obtain them, and of these, none, perhaps, repays with greater yield the labor bestowed, than the honey bee. Those that have taken proper care of them have not only enjoyed the liquid nectar of their rich store houses, but have received large remunerative profits in return. But, like all other stock, they must have proper care and attention. First, they must have the right kind of a hive. The one I have found the best is a square box, containing from 1,800 to 2,000 cubic inches, with movable frames, and a cap on top, covering a box the same size as the inside of the hive, that will contain from 25 to 30 pounds of honey. But the box should not be put on when the bees are first put in the hive. There should be a thin board, the size of the top of the hive, which I call the honey-board. This should be put on top of the hive, to prevent the bees from coming up into the box. The honey may be set on the honey-board, and the cap put on; and when the bees have filled or nearly filled the frames in the hive, then take off the cap and honey-board, and put on the honey box with the frames. The honey-board may be laid on top of the honey-box, and then put the cap on, which is a covering for all the top. In a good season, a strong colony will fill two such boxes, which we call surplus honey. in order to have bees do well in this latitude, they should be housed in winter. room that will not freeze is best. The idea of some, that bees freeze up in winter and thaw out all right in spring is very erroneous. If bees once freeze they never come to life again. The best place to winter bees is in a dry, side-hill cellar, made dark. But, as few people have such a place, a small room in the dwelling will answer, made perfectly dark. But if that cannot be had, set all the stands together and cover with straw. I would recommend those that have bees to get Quimby's work on bee-keeping.

But,

A

T. Gregg.-Bees are beginning to attract attention, and are increasing rapidly. Italians are being introduced. The bee moth is very destructive in some instances. I am not cognizant of any very effectual remedy.

ever seen.

H. Sodowsky. I have raised the Shanghai, Cochin China, Brahma Pootra, Hunter's Dominico and Black Spanish. The Hunter's Dominico is the largest chicken I have The Black Spanish is the best layer, the liveliest and smartest fowl I ever tried. It is a very healthy fowl. When cholera prevailed among our fowls, killing most of our large fowls, it killed very few of the Black Spanish. It is, too, a handsome fowl. The cock is a dark, glossy green, while the hen is black, with They are medium size, not much at setting, but extra layera.

white gills and face.

I have had common white geese; also, a much larger variety, called the Bremen, The goose and gander are both white. Last fall I was in the State of Ohio, and saw a species of geese, called the Hong Kong, the largest I ever saw. The goose and gander are of the same color, a blue, or rather a gray. I had four shipped to me in January. They have been laying since the middle of February.

They say these

geese will weigh 50 pounds to a pair. They are the largest I ever saw.

I have, also, a variety of turkey, called the Bronze turkey, that is the largest and finest I have ever seen.

As to bees, they are a sect I have nothing to do with. They do not like me, and there is no love lost on my side. I have a fine sugar orchard, and we have all the maple sugar and molasses we can use, besides other varieties of sugar and sweet things; so we can live independent of the bees.

G. W. Vaughan.-We raise no poultry but for our own use. The mixture of Shanghai with the common fowl is the best, not being so subject to disease as others.

J. G. Swann.-The common small breed is best for eggs.

J. Barber.-Bees have succeeded well. I use the square box hive, containing about a cubic foot. Place glass boxes upon the top, and cover with a cap.

17. RUBAL ARCHITECTURE, ETC.-Houses, barns, (for hay and grain and different kinds of stock,) root and fruit houses, etc.: the materials preferred: best arrangement for economy of labor and comfort?

M. A. McConnell.-We have three houses on the farm, all made of wood, with a wing attached. We have 5 barns; 2 for grain, each 33 by 60 feet; 2 cow barns, one 28 by 44, and one 28 by 60, 7 feet in the first stories, and 9 in the second for hay. The cattle stand with their heads toward the centre, and are fed out of the alley. Then we have a sheep barn 22 by 60, with racks to feed the sheep in; a horse barn, wagon house, corn crib, and a shed to keep tools in; also, a cheese factory, 30 by 128 feet and two stories high, where we made, last year, 185,000 pounds of cheese for our neighbors and ourselves. We charged for making, 2 cents per pound, and found every thing. The factory is supplied by water that comes in at a temperature of 45 degrees.

C. E. Barney.-Vertical boarding for corn cribs is much the best. Generally speaking the best barn is the one in which the corners are farthest apart.

A. Rankin. My buildings are common affairs. My barn is 48 by 24, and holds hay enough to feed the horses and cattle necessary on the farm, after they have eaten up the stalks. My hog sheds cannot be excelled for comfort to the hogs. The sheds all run east and west, and are twelve feet wide; made perfectly tight on the north and east and west. The shed is covered with slough grass, and topped off with bagasse fresh from the mill, which will never leak or blow off if well put on. The pens are all floored and kept clean. The hogs are bedded with wheat straw. When my sows have young pigs, I give each sow 8 by 12 feet under the shed. Each pen has a door opening into a yard on the south. After the pigs are weaned, I take out the partitions and let them all go together, still keeping it clean so as to prevent dust, as pigs will not thrive in dust. They all have good pasture in summer.

A. C. Hammond.-The introduction of the horse fork, by which hay can be elevated to any desired height, bids fair to revolutionize the whole system of barn building. Under many of the barns now built basements are constructed, to be used for stabling, storage, etc., and the whole upper portion used for hay. Under a portion of my own barn, built the past season, I have constructed a fruit cellar seven feet deep, and thirty feet span, with double doors and windows, and double floors over head. I shall remove eight inches of dirt from the bottom and replace it with pounded rock and cement both bottom

M. A. McConnell.—We have kept Shanghais and Bremens; these are the best for all purposes. They are large, and good layers; take good care of their brood, and are not mischievous about the yards.

H. Pierce.-A cross of Dorking, Shanghai and the common fowl is, I believe, preferred, although the black Spanish is being introduced with fine success.

A. Rankin.-The Domingo fowls are the most profitable to raise, as they are good layers and setters, and good for the table-I mean when left to hunt their own liv. ing. I consider Brahmas, with a little extra care and feed, a very superior fowl. Rev. G. W. Minier.—Aye, sir! Did you ever know a preacher that did not like poultry and honey? But, let me whisper this in your ear: They prefer eating them to rearing them, and study their peculiarities on the table, rather than running at large, or roaming in quest of the "healing dew."

Although the earth was cursed for man's sake, yet a beneficent Creator has placed within his reach many comforts and blessings, that he may enjoy by making use of the means to obtain them, and of these, none, perhaps, repays with greater yield the labor bestowed, than the honey bee. Those that have taken proper care of them have not only enjoyed the liquid nectar of their rich store houses, but have received large remunerative profits in return. But, like all other stock, they must have proper care and attention. First, they must have the right kind of a hive. The one I have found the best is a square box, containing from 1,800 to 2,000 cubic inches, with movable frames, and a cap on top, covering a box the same size as the inside of the hive, that will contain from 25 to 30 pounds of honey. But the box should not be put on when the bees are first put in the hive. There should be a thin board, the size of the top of the hive, which I call the honey-board. This should be put on top of the hive, to prevent the bees from coming up into the box. The honey may be set on the honey-board, and the cap put on; and when the bees have filled or nearly filled the frames in the hive, then take off the cap and honey-board, and put on the honey box with the frames. The honey-board may be laid on top of the honey-box, and then put the cap on, which is a covering for all the top. In a good season, a strong colony will fill two such boxes, which we call surplus honey. But, in order to have bees do well in this latitude, they should be housed in winter. A room that will not freeze is best. The idea of some, that bees freeze up in winter and thaw out all right in spring is very erroneous. If bees once freeze they never come to life again. The best place to winter bees is in a dry, side-hill cellar, made dark. But, as few people have such a place, a small room in the dwelling will answer, made perfectly dark. But if that cannot be had, set all the stands together and cover with straw. I would recommend those that have bees to get Quimby's work on bee-keeping.

T. Gregg.-Bees are beginning to attract attention, and are increasing rapidly. Italians are being introduced. The bee moth is very destructive in some instances. I am not cognizant of any very effectual remedy.

H. Sodowsky.—I have raised the Shanghai, Cochin China, Brahma Pootra, Hunter's Dominico and Black Spanish. The Hunter's Dominico is the largest chicken I have ever seen. The Black Spanish is the best layer, the liveliest and smartest fowl I ever tried. It is a very healthy fowl. When cholera prevailed among our fowls, killing most of our large fowls, it killed very few of the Black Spanish. It is, too, a handsome fowl. The cock is a dark, glossy green, while the hen is black, with They are medium size, not much at setting, but extra layers.

white gills and face.

I have had common white geese; also, a much larger variety, called the Bremen. The goose and gander are both white. Last fall I was in the State of Ohio, and saw a species of geese, called the Hong Kong, the largest I ever saw. The goose and gander are of the same color, a blue, or rather a gray. I had four shipped to me in January. They have been laying since the middle of February. They say these

geese will weigh 50 pounds to a pair. They are the largest I ever saw.

I have, also, a variety of turkey, called the Bronze turkey, that is the largest and finest I have ever seen.

As to bees, they are a sect I have nothing to do with. They do not like me, and there is no love lost on my side. I have a fine sugar orchard, and we have all the maple sugar and molasses we can use, besides other varieties of sugar and sweet things; so we can live independent of the bees.

G. W. Vaughan.-We raise no poultry but for our own use. The mixture of Shanghai with the common fowl is the best, not being so subject to disease as others.

J. G. Swann.-The common small breed is best for eggs.

J. Barber.-Bees have succeeded well. I use the square box hive, containing about a cubic foot. Place glass boxes upon the top, and cover with a cap.

17. RURAL AROHITECTURE, ETC.-Houses, barns, (for hay and grain and different kinds of stock,) root and fruit houses, etc.: the materials preferred: best arrangement for economy of labor and comfort?

M. A. McConnell.-We have three houses on the farm, all made of wood, with a wing attached. We have 5 barns; 2 for grain, each 33 by 60 feet; I cow barns, one 28 by 44, and one 28 by 60, 7 feet in the first stories, and 9 in the second for hay. The cattle stand with their heads toward the centre, and are fed out of the alley. Then we have a sheep barn 22 by 60, with racks to feed the sheep in; a horse barn, wagon house, corn crib, and a shed to keep tools in; also, a cheese factory, 30 by 128 feet and two stories high, where we made, last year, 185,000 pounds of cheese for our neighbors and ourselves. We charged for making, 2 cents per pound, and found every thing. The factory is supplied by water that comes in at a temperature of 45 degrees.

C. E. Barney.-Vertical boarding for corn cribs is much the best. ing the best barn is the one in which the corners are farthest apart.

Generally speak

A. Rankin. My buildings are common affairs. My barn is 48 by 24, and holds hay enough to feed the horses and cattle necessary on the farm, after they have eaten up the stalks. My hog sheds cannot be excelled for comfort to the hogs. The sheds all run east and west, and are twelve feet wide; made perfectly tight on the north and east and west. The shed is covered with slough grass, and topped off with bagasse fresh from the mill, which will never leak or blow off if well put on. The pens are all floored and kept clean. The hogs are bedded with wheat straw. When my sows have young pigs, I give each sow 8 by 12 feet under the shed. Each pen has a door opening into a yard on the south. After the pigs are weaned, I take out the partitions and let them all go together, still keeping it clean so as to prevent dust, as pigs will not thrive in dust. They all have good pasture in summer.

A. C. Hammond.—The introduction of the horse fork, by which hay can be elevated to any desired height, bids fair to revolutionize the whole system of barn building. Under many of the barns now built basements are constructed, to be used for stabling, storage, etc., and the whole upper portion used for hay. Under a portion of my own barn, built the past season, I have constructed a fruit cellar seven feet deep, and thirty feet span, with double doors and windows, and double floors over head. I shall remove eight inches of dirt from the bottom and replace it with pounded rock and cement both bottom

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