French Seam (Fig. 15)—The French seam may be used in long seams of princess slips, aprons, kimonas, etc. Place the wrong sides of the two edges of cloth to be seamed together and baste about one-fourth inch from the edge. Trim the edges evenly to about one-eighth of an inch. Crease the plain seam made wide open, and then fold the right sides together and crease so that the stitching of the plain seam is exactly on the edge. Baste and stitch one-fourth inch from the edge.

The neatness of a French seam is ruined by having ravelings showing on the right side, so be sure that the raw edge is trimmed evenly and the last stitching is wide enough to completely cover the edge.

Welt Seam (Fig. 16)—A welt seam is the finished seam used especially for seams of tailored articles, skirts, dresses, suits, etc. Baste and stitch as in making a plain seam. Trim upper edge to one-fourth inch of stitching and turn the other edge down over the one trimmed. Crease seam on the right side so that the material does not overlap, and baste the cloth down on the seam edge and also on the edges at back one-half inch near the desired width for stitching.

The Cord Seam (Fig. 17)—The cord seam is used as the welt seam. Baste as for a plain seam, then, instead of stitching and pressing open, turn both edges to one side and baste them down. Stitch one-eighth to one-fourth inch from the seam edge through the three thicknesses of material.

Fig. 18-Tucked Seam, or Open Welt.

The Tucked Seam or Open Welt (Fig. 18)-The tucked seam gives the same effect as the cord seam, only the width from edge of seam to stitching is larger. Baste a plain seam with edges about the width you wish for tuck. Turn to right side and put in two rows of basting-the first row near the edge of plain seam and the second row about the width of tuck desired from the first row. Stitch near second row of bastings, usually about one-fourth to one inch from the seam edge.

PART IV

Brief Directions for Articles in Sewing Project

(A choice may be made of six out of twelve.)

Stitches to be used: (a) Basting-even and diagonal; (b) backstitch-half backstitch, whole stitch; (c) catch or cat stitch; (d) blanket stitch. Materials suitable for pin cushion:

A. Cloth

1. Cross-stitch material, or

2. Any coarsely woven material of which the threads may be counted, such as scrim, etc.

B. Findings

1. Thread:

(a) Coarse silk crochet thread.

(b) Heavy crochet cotton.

(c) Medium-weight woolen yarn. 2. Lining to match thread in color: (a) Bright-colored sateen.

(b) Any evenly woven material. 3. Needle:

(a) Blunt long-eyed needle best.

(b) Any needle through whose eye the thread will go.

2. The Sewing Bag.

Stitches and seams to be used: (a) Overcasting; (b) hemming; (c) featherstitching; (d) fancy blanket stitch.

Materials suitable for sewing bag:

A. Cloth

1. Scrim with silk lining.

2. Linen, coarse or fine.

3. Soft silk pongee, or wide ribbon.

4. Fine or coarse cotton material, such as dimity, lawn, flaxon, cretonne.

B. Findings

1. The thread depends on cloth chosen. Choose material and then refer

to table for number of needle and thread to use.

2. Trimming to match or contrast with material in color.

(a) Crochet cotton or silk for featherstitching.

(b) Ribbon for drawstring.

3. Darning.

Stockings may be darned on the right or wrong side, the main aim being to have it perfectly smooth without a ridge on either side.

Put the warp threads in first, being careful to take up all the loops on the edge of the hole. Then put in the woof or cross threads over and then under the warp threads. At the edge of the hole be sure to pass over and then under the edge so there will be no ridges.

If the hole is large, a piece may be set in very satisfactorily by basting the part to be mended over a piece of paper and match a piece in color, size, and texture to the hole. Sew this piece in hole by joining the two edges by passing the needle and thread in close stitches, alternating over one edge and under the opposite. The stitch forms a lacing and must be done evenly and closely, but not tightly enough to raise the edges.

Reinforce thin places by short running stitches over the entire surface of the worn part.

In all mending and darning try to match the thread in kind, color, and thickness to the thread of the article, and be sure the needle is neither coarser nor finer than required.

4. Fancy Apron.

This is to be made entirely by hand. Pattern No. 3261 of the Butterick Co., which can be obtained at almost any dry-goods store, is a good design.

Stitches and seams to be used: (a) Gathering; (b) bastings; (c) overcasting; (d) hemming.

Materials suitable to be used:

A. Cloth, plain white or figured—

1. Fine or medium-fine linen

(a) Cambric.

(b) Crash.

(c) Linen lawn.

(d) Handkerchief linen.

2. Fine or medium-fine cotton material

(a) Flaxon.

(b) Lawn.

(c) Dimity.

(d) Dotted swiss.

(e) Linon.

(f) Batiste.

(g) Organdie.

B. Findings

1. Thread, depends upon cloth chosen. See table.

2. Trimmings:

(a) Lace edging, such as Cluny, Maltese, Torchon, Val, etc.
(b) Beading to match edging.

5. Laundry Bag.

A good size for a large bag is length, 32 inches, and width, 16 inches.

Stitches and seams to be used: (a) Even basting; (b) French seam made with sewing machine. Hem top and side openings by machine.

Materials suitable for laundry bag:

A. Cloth

1. Unbleached muslin.

2. Linen, medium weight.

3. Cretonne.

4. Indian head.

5. Galatea.

B. Findings

1. White cord or embroidery hoops may be used in top.

2. Thread and needle suitable for material chosen.

3. Trimming-If the material is white or of one color, the word "Laundry" may be embroidered on or crossstitched on.

6. Patching.

Hemmed Patch-This patch is used to mend articles that require frequent laundering. Match material, then place patch in position to cut patch and hole square along threads and crease edges in seams. Seam and turn edges on wrong side.

Overhand Patch-Fit patch piece to hole, as in hemmed patch, but cut corners of patch and cut in corners of square hole about one-fourth inch. Hem or overhand patch and leave raw seam edges about one-fourth inch wide on the wrong side.

7. Cooking Apron and Cap.

For the apron, patterns No. 5162 or No. 5666 of the Butterick Co., or No. 6504 of Pictorial Review are suggested, but a choice may be made of others. Stitches and seams to be used: (a) Bastings; (b) French seams on sewing machine; (c) hemming by machine; (d) buttonholing and sewing on buttons. Materials suitable for cooking apron:

A. Cloth

1. Long cloth.

2. Berkeley cambric.

3. Any medium weight, white or colored, washable cloth.

B. Findings—

1. Thread and needle suitable to material chosen.

2. Pearl buttons, depending on the pattern chosen.

3. Bias bindings.

For the cap, pattern No. 6327 of Pictorial Review is suggested. Ask for small, medium, or large size, as you desire.

Stitches to be used: (a) Basting; (b) hemming; (c) overhanding on trimming.

Material suitable to be used:

A. Cloth

1. Same as used in apron.

2. Lawn.

3. Fine linen.

4. Flaxon.

B. Findings

1. Rubber enough to go around the head.

2. Lace, depending on style you are making.
3. Ribbon for bow.

8. Simple Piece of Underwear.

Design No. 6011 of Pictorial Review gives a pretty underwaist with a small kimono sleeve in it, but any other article or design may be selected.

Stitches and seams to be used: (a) Satin stitch; (b) overhanding; (c) French fell seam; (d) gathering.

Materials suitable to be used:

A. Cloth

1. For best wear-Fine nainsook and lace.

2. For satisfactory, ordinary wear-Long cloth and light muslin.

3. The following may also be used-Berkeley cambric, Alpine Rose muslin, dimity, lawn, cotton crepe, and silk crepe de chine.

B. Findings

1. Trimmings:

(a) For durability-Linen laces, Torchon and Cluny.

(b) Next to linen in durability-German Val.

(c) Embroidery edging and insertion are good.

(d) Hand embroidery, featherstitching, and other fancy stitches are also good decorations.

2. Needles, thread, and buttons suitable for material selected. Don't get buttons too large.

9. Pair of Curtains.

In selecting design and materials for curtains, bear in mind the principle of simplicity, suitability, and harmony with the purpose and also the other furnishings in the room. Plain walls may be very interestingly relieved with quiet figured and colored draperies. Sill-length curtains and light-weight draperies are better adapted to a modest home than floor-length and heavy velvet or tapestry draperies.

Materials:

Plain texture-Reps, poplins, casement cloth, soft silk, denims, English chintzes, cretonnes, or linen in harmonizing colors make pretty side draperies. Inexpensive madras, scrim, cheesecloth, lawn, voile, and linen are materials which, when used skillfully, give more beautiful effects for curtains than heavy, clumsy lace, or net curtains.

Finishings:

Hemming or hemstitching an inch and one-half hem. Fringed and knotted edge is pretty on cheesecloth curtains.

10. Towels.

The towels may be made of regular size, 14 yards long and 24 to 27 inches wide, or guest size, 27 inches long and 16 inches wide, plain or embroidered, or they may be plain hemmed, dish-wiping towels. The hems vary in width from 14 to 2 inches, depending on the width, length, or size of the towel. The hand work on them is what is to be judged.

Stitches which may be used: (a) Hemming or hemstitching for hems; (b) satin stitch, cross stitch, or any other embroidery stitch you please, may be used for decoration.

Crocheted lace edging and insertion may be put in the towels. Always strive for simplicity in design and good workmanship.

Suggested materials:

(a) Huck toweling.

(b) Striped toweling.

(c) Crash.

(d) Flour sacks.