side of the lower left corner of the square that is to be crossed. Insert the needle in the upper right corner and bring it to right side up in the lower left on corner of the next square. This makes a slant across square. Repeat it across a whole row, finishing the crosses by returning from right to left with the same vertical stitches.

Fig. 8-Featherstitching.

The Featherstitch (Fig. 8)-The featherstitch is an ornamental stitch. Knot the thread and bring the needle up through the material. Have the center line of the design marked with a colored thread. Hold the thread down over the line with the left thumb and insert the needle a little to the right of the line, then to the left, keeping all spaces even, as the beauty of the featherstitching depends upon the uniformity of the slant, the length, and the placing of the stitches.

Double combination featherstitching is done in the same way, only two stitches are taken to the right before crossing the main line of the design, and then two to the left across the line.

Triple combination featherstitching is made by taking three stitches to the right, then crossing the line and making three to the left, and

so on.

The Gathering Stitch-Gather the material by putting in a row of short, even-running stitches, slipping the stitches along on the needle and not removing it from the material for ten or twelve stitches. A pin placed vertically at the last stitch will hold the thread tight, if the thread is wound around it several times in the form of an "8."

Fig. 9-Plain Hemming Stitch.

The Hemming Stitches (Fig. 9)-For hemming, the edge of material must first be folded twice and basted down the desired depth. Hold the edges to be sewed toward you, place the hem over the forefinger, and hold it down with the thumb. Begin at the right end and put the needle through the fold, leaving the end of the thread to be caught under the hemming stitches. Point the needle toward the left shoulder, make a slanting stitch by taking up a few threads of the material and the fold of the hem. Repeat, training the eye to keep the stitches even and uniform.

Fig. 10-Napery Hem.

For a napery hem (Fig. 10), the hem is folded back on the right side, the material creased along the fold, and the needle is inserted straight on line of the threads of the woven material. Open and flatten stitches with thumb nail.

A rolled hem (Fig. 11) is used to join sheer, dainty material and trimmings together. The lace on the fancy apron may be put on with a rolled hem.

Hold the wrong side of the material toward you, having the material smoothly trimmed of all ravelings. Begin at the right end and roll the edge toward you tightly between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. Begin to sew with overcasting stitch, when you have about one and one-half inches of the hem rolled ahead.

Fig. 11-Insertion Inset with

Rolled Hem.

The Hemstitch (Fig. 12)—The hemstitch is an ornamental stitch used as a finish at the top or hem of tucks. To know where to draw out the threads for it, measure carefully twice the width of the desired hem plus turning and draw a thread. Fold hem and baste it carefully along the line of the drawn thread. The number of threads drawn out and the number taken up with each stitch depends on the coarseness of the material to be hemstitched.

To make the stitch, hold the hem toward you over the fingers of the left hand. Place needle under the edge of the hem at the left-hand edge. Hold the work over the forefinger of the left hand, keeping the thumb over the thread. Take up four or five threads with the needle, pointing from right to left. Draw thread through and take up a short stitch in fold of hem at the extreme right of the threads taken up. Be sure to keep the threads drawn down as evenly as possible. Repeat the stitch along the edge of the entire hem.

Kensington Outline Stitch-This stitch is used to outline a design. Start without a knot by putting in three or four running stitches on the line. Bring needle out at end of line, hold cloth over left forefinger, and work from you. Point needle toward you and take a short stitch on the line, keeping the thread on the right side. Repeat, making all stitches even in length and on the line.

The Overcasting Stitch-Overcasting is a slanting stitch used as a finish to seams on material which ravels. easily. To make the stitch point the needle to the left shoulder and take the stitches one-eighth of an inch apart and about one-eighth of an inch deep.

The Running Stitch-Running stitches are short, even stitches with even spaces between them. They are used for seams.

The Satin Stitch-The satin stitch is used in embroidery of all kinds and in making initials on linen. Place design in embroidery hoop and beginning at the top, work to the bottom of design from left to right, carrying the thread over and over and placing the stitches close together. Be sure to put the needle through directly on the line of the design.

PART III

How to Use and to Make Several Seams

Seams-A seam is formed by sewing two pieces of cloth together. Seams are called French, French fell, plain, and otherwise, according to how the two pieces of material are stitched and folded and not according to what different kinds of stitches are used.

Stitching of tailored seams varies according to the season. When you get ready to make your dress, notice in the fashion magazines particularly how the seams are stitched this season, as this adds a great deal to the appearance of the garment. Heavy material usually appears to the best advantage with stitching on the outside to give a broad, substantial effect, while light-weight material does not usually need stitching on the outside, but if it is used for decorative purposes, place it near seam edges to give a narrow and firm effect.

Mark Stitches or Tailor's Tacks (Fig. 13)-After the seams have been marked with chalk, take a double thread in needle and make two even bastings, then skip one-half to threefourths of an inch and take two more stitches, leaving a loop of the thread over an inch long between each group through the two pieces of material to mark the seam. Next gently separate these two pieces of material and cut the thread between them so that threads are left in each piece to mark seam line and so both sides of a gore or sections will be alike.

French Fell (Fig. 14)-The French fell seam is used in underclothes and garments that lie next to the skin, as it is smooth and flat. Baste the two pieces with right sides together one-fourth inch from edge. Stitch three-eighths of an inch from the edge and trim one edge to about one-half of the width of the other. Fold the wider edge over twice in a narrow hem and stitch flat on the cloth over narrow edge.