instead of the solid loaf. The natives being partial to them hot, a fresh supply is brought in during the middle of the meal. Cakes made of maize are also in great request amongst them, as well as a pudding of the same material mixed with eggs. Both these are considered very wholesome; but those whose palates are unused to them seldom find them agreeable at first. Dinner takes place at two, or seldom later than three o'clock, and nearly corresponds with ours. Soups are in much use. In Virginia and Carolina, solid joints of meat are less frequently seen, than fowls with ham and greens. Turkies are very common. I cannot say much in praise of their cookery. When I first landed, I fancied that every article on table was inferior to what I had been accustomed to at home; further experience convinced me, that the difference was mainly occasioned by the cookery. The Americans should take a few lessons from the French on this valuable science. They are particularly unskilful in making pastry. The pie is baked in a shallow dish so that it has no syrup. I did not taste a single fruit pie of prime quality. The wines commonly taken, are Claret in summer, and Madeira in winter. Dr. Johnson said that he could abstain from wine, but that when he took it, he liked a copious draught. The Americans are more rational. The decanters are frequently removed with the cloth; if not, seldom above two or three glasses are drank after, as they are not, like the English, in the habit of sitting for an hour or two passing the bottle round; and it is earnestly to be desired that they never may. It is expensive, injurious to health, and deprives us of the company of "the sex whose presence civilizes ours." They never urge their guests to take more than is agreeable. O! that the Scotch, many of whom in the middle rank of life are prone to jollity, would generally imitate them in this. True politeness seems to dictate, that each should be left to his own free inclination. Though in this particular I approve the Americans, I think they might make their dinners more comfortable than they do. Where is the necessity of eating so rapidly, as to distance an Englishman to a degree quite perplexing? Their countryman Count Rumford gave them a lesson on this point, which has been apparently quite neglected. He knew that to enjoy a dinner properly, to obtain the flavour of the different dishes, it was necessary to eat slowly; and as our appetites are given us to be enjoyed with moderation and thankfulness, why should we deprive our The selves of gratifications resulting from their right use? To prove how little the Americans understand the art of enjoying a dinner, it is only necessary to mention, that they take two or three sorts of vegetables on to the plate at once, thus losing the peculiar taste of each. French and Spanish plan, of eating vegetables after meat, is preferable to this. While mentioning the dinner, let me add that the rivers abound with fish, some of which are not to be found in our waters, amongst which the Bass deserves distinction, from its being both delicate and substantial. The Sturgeon, so rare with us, is so plentiful with them, that the citizens of New York and Baltimore disregard it. The Virginians are better judges. The table is tolerably well supplied with game during the season, though they have no hares. Canvasback ducks are shot by sportsmen in great numbers. Their flavour is so delicious, that they ought to be transported to our side of the Atlantic. But if I continue longer on the luxuries of the table, I shall be suspected for a second Apicius. I confess I am not enough of a Trappist, to think that these matters are beneath my notice. Hilarity is often as much promoted by a good dinner, as by an amusing tale: on that ground therefore, I may be excused for G the particulars I have given. I can fare hard without grumbling, when need requires; but when I meet with a good dinner, I like to eat it with a relish. I was surprised in Maryland and Virginia, to see a young lady's plate covered with a profusion, which with us would be considered fit only for a ploughman; but I afterwards noticed that it was customary never to clear the plate, I suppose under the notion of gentility. Of course, I must have been regarded as of vulgar habits, before I found this out, being in the habit of leaving nothing but bones, unless when over plentifully helped. The reason of my not at first noticing it, was owing to my having been in several States where the custom was quite different before I entered Maryland; and I had ceased to make such particular observation as I at first did, supposing that I had already learnt exactly how to conform. The dessert consists of fruits according to the season. Peaches and melons are abundant and the apples are of a particularly fine flavour. Cherries, gooseberries and strawberries are inferior to the same fruits in England; and the grapes are too poor to be worth notice to those persons who have eaten the grapes of France or Portugal. ; Tea, in which supper is included, is taken at six or seven o'clock. It is in general not quite so substantial as breakfast, but with a vast variety. Preserved fruits, in which they excel, are commonly on table, except during the season for ripe fruit, when a variety of delicious garden productions tempts the palate. Thin bread and butter is seldom met with; for nothing solid being taken after, the repast is more substantial than with us. Hard and soft biscuits and toast are usually part of it. The latter article is sometimes soaked in milk; but in this state it was far from palatable to me. With respect to this meal, what always surprised me was, though I never ventured to hint such a thing, that they should place such incongruous articles on table together: oysters and sweet cakes, strawberries and cheese placed side by side! I at first stared with wonder, and could not but regard as passing strange, that Milton's description of Eve, should never have caught the eye of one of her fair American daughters. He represents her, "With hospitable thoughts intent, What choice to mix for delicacy best, What order so contrived as not to mix Tastes not well joined, inelegant, but bring |