pieces of jade, amber, or ivory, tastefully carved or decorated with silver filigree.

A VARIETY OF ODORS

Unlike many corners of this crowded city, there is an alluring smell here. Oriental drugs and spices are kept in boxes surrounded by decorated. leather water bottles and camel trappings fit for a bridal caravan, made of goat'shair dyed in crude yellow, pink, dark blue, light blue, and scarlet. On them are mounted glass rings from Hebron and shells from Aleppo.

Charms to save children from the evileye, made of a threecornered piece of alum, one blue bead, and a wooden bean, are strung up with wooden clogs inlaid with mother-of-pearl, holsters, and every kind and shape of brass bell for camel, sheep, donkey, or goat.

CRUSADING KNIGHT

The porters have their own coffee shop, a magnificent building dating from Saracenic times. It is erected in the form of a Maltese cross, in the center of which is a high, raised dome supported by pillars. Here the porters, sitting on little stools, spread across their knees a wooden tray supporting a frugal meal of bread rings and eggs. Sunlight smuggles itself into the shop through a heavily barred window built between the top of the pillars and the dome.

Permeating these tortuous roads, the smells of coffee, spices, and curry mix with others less agreeable, and nothing suggests the Orient so vividly as the variety of its odors.

Jerusalem's position on the rocky summits of the Judean highlands has always made the water supply a problem. It has but a single spring in the valley of the Kidron, from which water flows intermittently.

AGE-OLD RESERVOIRS SUPPLY JERUSALEM WITH WATER

To one seeing the city now, it is difficult to conceive the conditions that existed before the British entered. Privately owned cisterns, rain-fed during the winter months, furnished the main water

supply. The army increased it by utilizing an ancient Herodian reservoir south of Bethlehem and replacing the old stone aqueduct to the city with modern piping.* Lately, as this supply was insufficient, three large stone tanks nearer Bethlehem, with a capacity of 40,000,000 gallons, have been restored by the municipality.

History is almost silent concerning the origin of these pools. They are said to have originated in the time of King Solomon, whose name they bear, and, according to Josephus, it may have been Pontius Pilate who rebuilt and enlarged them.

Water is collected from springs and the whole system, formerly worked by gravity, now has a modern pumping plant which was transferred from Romane, in the Sinai Peninsula, where it had been installed by the British Army to conduct Nile water across the desert into Palestine during their advance. During 1926 the pools were practically empty, owing to a long drought, but the following year, after a 5-day rainfall, within three weeks, they were full for the first time since the days of the Romans.

The last water reserve is pumped up from Ain Farah, the rock-rimmed oasis which David probably had in mind when he composed the Shepherd Psalm (see, also, footnote, page 655).

People who live in well-watered towns can hardly believe the straits the city was in. Even to-day it is not unusual to see men and women lined up waiting for their turn at the standpipe. Much of the picturesqueness has gone, as gasoline tins have largely replaced the earthenware jar, but bloated waterskins are still carried through the narrow streets, somewhat to the danger of the passer-by.

TOMBS OF MEDIEVAL AND MODERN
KNIGHTS

In the courtyard near the entrance to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher lies the tomb of Philip d'Aubigny, a medieval crusading knight. From the tomb which recalls the early Crusades so vividly it is a few minutes to the burial place on

* See, also, “An Old Jewel in the Proper Setting: An Eye-Witness's Account of the Reconquest of the Holy Land by Twentieth Century Crusaders," by Charles W. Whitehair, in the NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE for October, 1918.

Mount Scopus of more than 3,000 modern crusaders, who, at the call of country, crossed the seas and the burning sands of Sinai to mount the rocky hills of Judea. They were armed not with cloak, buckler, shield, or spear, but with trench mortar, howitzer, machine gun, and bayonet. They dared all, gave all, even life itself, and what finer resting place could be won than the soil of the Holy City? (page 664).

THE PAGEANTRY OF RELIGIOUS FESTIVALS

In the little city of great things, religious observances play a part in daily life unknown in other capitals. Since it is the center of three great faiths and all their subdivisions, can it be wondered at if each faith and branch thereof jealously guards rights and rites acquired throughout centuries, often through famine, siege, and untold hardship?

In a modern city, one meets people daily for years without knowing their religious beliefs. religious beliefs. This is impossible in Jerusalem. Be he occidental or oriental, every man's religion is known to all and also the fidelity with which he carries out the obligations imposed by his faith.

The religious festivals bring their own. pageantry to the city. There are Moslems with their adherents from northern Africa, India, Afghanistan, Bokhara, Arabia, and the Sudan; Christians of all denominations; Latins, including many of the religious orders and the Uniate churches which acknowledge the supremacy of the Pope; the Eastern churches, which comprise the Orthodox, the Armenian, and Syriac, Copts, and Abyssinians; the Anglican Church; the Jews, divided into Ashkenazim, Sephardim, Karaites, Yemenites, Georgians, and Bokharans.

During the year they all have ample opportunity to display their beautiful robes and vestments, from a simple black gown worn by Moslems to cloth of real gold heavily embroidered, from a white turban to a scarlet miter incrusted with precious stones (see Color Plates of individual ecclesiastical vestments, I to VIII). Magnificent, spectacular, and stately are the processions.

THE NEBI MUSA PROCESSION

The annual Moslem pilgrimage to Nebi Musa, the reputed burial place of the Prophet Moses in the Jordan Valley, be

gins by a ceremony of imposing simplicity, known as "The Handing Over of the Banners." Before going to the to the Temple area, the four banners of green silk embroidered in gold, that are to be carried in the procession, are brought furled, at nine in the morning, to the offices of the Deputy District Commissioner, who gives them to the traditional bearers. Then a prayer of blessing is said by a leading Imam (Mohammedan religious leader) and the flags are borne through the Damascus Gate into the walled city.

In the afternoon the Grand Mufti sets out from the Temple area through Saint Stephen's Gate, or, as the Arabs say, "The Gate of Our Lady Mary," mounted on an Arab steed and surrounded by the Faithful, who have poured into Jerusalem from far and near. As he scales the hill past the Garden of Gethsemane, with his spirited charger dancing in the sunlight, he makes a noble figure commensurate with the great influence that Moslem and Arab thought has had upon the city of their fathers.

I challenge anyone gifted with imagina