by sand-dunes. From these trees turpentine is obtained. The fountain at Leiria, where the girls fill their terra cotta water jars, is a never-to-be-forgotten picture. These slendernecked vessels are graceful in shape, like the amphora of old. They are tilted coquettishly on one side of the head when empty; balanced erect when full. The largest when laden must weigh at least 40 pounds. From Leiria we drove through a smiling country of cornfields and vineyards to Batalha. To lovers of horses, it seemed good to find at magnificent span left in this motor-mad world. I saw a green bough over the doorway of a road house, the ancient sign that wine is for sale. "Good wine needs no bush," the old saying ran. Photograph by A. W. Cutler AN ORNATE WINDOW OF THE 12TH CENTURY Travelers come miles to see this famous window in the Convento do Christo at Thomar. Here, too, is the Church of Santa Maria do Olival, oldest church of the Knights Templar in Portugal. Henry the Navigator was long Grand Master of the order. The Church of Santa Maria da Victoria and the adjoining monastery, known as Batalha (Battle), was built to commemorate a great Portuguese victory over the Spaniards in 1385. The battle, begun in this hollow among the hills, ended on the near-by plateau of Aljubarrota and secured Portugal's independence. They tell a story about the baker's wife of Aljubarrota, who killed seven Castilian soldiers with her long oven shovel. "As full of the devil as the baker's wife of Aljubarrota" is a popular saying. The Battle Abbey of Batalha, as large as the cathedrals of Paris, Toledo, and Cologne, is one of the most beautiful Gothic structures in the world. Near the main entrance is the Chapel of the Founder, where João I and Philippa and four of their five sons lie, among them Prince Henry the Navigator. The eldest son, Duarte (Edward), who succeeded his father, lies with his queen near the high altar of the church. In the hidden places of Batalha's golden, ruby, and russet walls, roofed by a cobalt sky, hundreds of swallows make their homes. WHERE PORTUGAL'S "UNKNOWN SOLDIER" LIES In the Chapter House, whose bold, vaulted roof is unsupported by pillars, is the floor tomb of the Unknown Soldier of the World War. There are freshly cut flowers on the stone slab; beside it a Long ago this magnificent building stood pleasantly alone, amid a forest. Now a straggling village has encroached upon it. This "Battle Abbey" at BACKWARD, STICK IN HAND, TO ACCELERATE HIS "The short and simple animals of the poor," donkeys have been called. The black bag-caps of the Portuguese boys serve as a convenient catchall. In them may be carried everything, from money and marbles to live toads. Portuguese lads riding home from market near Caldas da Rainha, or "Hot Springs of the Queen.' Long ago this magnificent building stood pleasantly alone, amid a forest. Now a straggling village has encroached upon it. This "Battle Abbey" at BACKWARD, STICK IN HAND, TO ACCELERATE HIS "The short and simple animals of the poor," donkeys have been called. The black bag-caps of the Portuguese boys serve as a convenient catchall. In them may be carried everything, from money and marbles to live toads. Portuguese lads riding home from market near Caldas da Rainha, or "Hot Springs of the Queen." |