REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF GARDEN.

SIR: I have the honor to submit the following notes and remarks upon the progress and practical operations of the garden :

At the risk of repetition, I would again allude to the limited area of the garden. It is highly necessary that the department should possess complete orchards of the various hardy fruits. At least one tree or plant of every variety should be kept, thus forming a living museum, which would be of great value for reference. As it is, only the small fruits can be accommodated, and, to test all the new varieties even of these, it is found necessary to eradicate those that proved to be comparatively worthless. This, although perhaps no great loss, does not fully serve the purpose of a national garden, which should preserve specimens of all, in order to assist in the identification of sorts, and also exhibit the progress made in their improvement.

GRAPES.

Inquiry is frequently made as to the best mode of propagating the grape, the information sought, however, having reference more to the character of plant produced than to the mode of manipulation-whether the best plants are those produced from long cuttings, single eyes, or layers; and also to the relative merit of plants produced partially or altogether under glass, and those grown wholly in the open border. So far as the health of the plant is involved, as having an influence upon its future growth, there is no difference in any of the above-mentioned modes, provided it has ripened and thoroughly matured both wood and roots. Plants of the very best description have been produced from single eyes of young green shoots taken off in May, rooted, and kept in pots during summer. These have made growths from six to eight feet in length, thoroughly ripened to the tips of the shoots, and formed as fine plants as may be desired for permanent planting.

To produce plants from such soft and succulent cuttings, it is absolutely essential that they be placed under glass and in a warm bed, technically bottom heat, and as soon as roots are formed the young plants are potted and kept growing freely under glass-but not in a close atmosphere-a position they may occupy until growth is complete; or, they can be planted out in the open ground by the end of July. Unless with new or rare varieties there is seldom any necessity for this mode of propagation, which requires considerable skill and care; but it is proper to state that as good plants can be procured by this as can be by any other mode, and, in respect to being exempt from old wood, it is superior to any other mode of propagation by cuttings. It is a system of multiplying all kinds of plants more universally adopted than any other, and answers quite as well with the grape as with any other plant. Where cuttings are plentiful, the most economical method of raising plants is by long cuttings in the open border. These should not be less than four inches in length, and need not be over six inches. Selecting a well pulverized soil, rather light or sandy, insert the cuttings in rows, pressing them down so that the bud rests on the surface; the soil should be made firm around them, and if slightly covered with strawy manure (only a sprinkling-chaff will answer better if obtainable,) to prevent surface evaporation, a very large per

centage will form fine plants without any further care than that necessary to keep down weeds and cultivate the surface.

Ordinarily there is no better mode of propagating grapes than that known as by the single eye or bud. As indicated, these are made with one bud retained, and about one inch of wood below it. Plants from these have but very little old wood in their structure, and so approach as near as possible to a plant produced from seed, although, as far as this is concerned, the plant from a green wood cutting has decidedly the advantage. Single eye cuttings of old wood are generally placed under glass, and receive a slight bottom heat. This, however, is not indispensable, and they will do well on a green-house shelf. The great point in their management is to preserve sufficient moisture in the soil so as to prevent the sap in the cutting from exhaustion until the roots are formed. They may be planted out doors and succeed if caution is taken not to allow the surface to become dried; it is merely a question of evaporation. A slight bottom heat is useful to force the plant, but it should be applied very gently until indications of rooting appear. In climates where the growing season is comparatively short there is advantage gained in getting the plants well advanced before setting out.

When roots are sufficiently advanced, the plants are placed singly in small pots, and planted in the open border as soon as the weather is favorable. As evidence of the strength and vigor of plants procured in this way, it may be noted that specimens have been grown in one summer, from single eyes set in spring, that have produced several pounds of fruit the following season.

Wood intended for cuttings should be pruned off in November, cut in convenient lengths, and buried at once in the soil, covered at least nine inches. By doing so the sap is retained, and many failures in cuttings can be clearly traced to causes which will in this way be obviated.

Layers of the young wood is another legitimate mode of propagating vines, and from old established plants a few shoots can be laid down during the early part of summer, form good rooted plants before winter, and that without materially injuring the fruit crop.

As previously remarked, it matters but little to the future well-being of the plant as to which of the above modes have been employed in its production, provided it has properly matured its growth.

There is one point in regard to roots which it may be well to mention. When the plants are grown in a deep, porous, rich soil, the roots ramily into numerous small fibres, which have been not inaptly described as “ horse-taillike bunches." Plants having such appendages as roots are not in good condition for removal, inasmuch as these hair-like fibres are destitute of woody matter, and soon decay on exposure to the atmosphere. The possession of such roots is a very convincing proof that the plant has not completed (or rather not matured) its growth, and its future progress will be feeble. Unfortunately there is too great a tendency to the production of such growths, since most of the native grapes are more or less checked with mildew during the growing season, an influence which also extends to the roots. The best plants are those with the greatest amount of hard brown ripened tops, furnished with moderately strong, and what may be termed stout, wiry roots, and although these, to a novice, are not so enticing in appearance, yet they are the best adapted to furnish an abundance of fresh and vigorous spongioles, and, in consequence, vigorous plants.

PLANTING.

When the young vine is planted in its permanent location it should be pruned down to two buds, and this without reference to the manner of its propagation. Even the strongest layers should be so treated. One cane is

sufficient to grow, but, to be prepared for possible accident, both buds should be allowed to start until the shoots are long enough to admit of tying to a stake, then the weakest may be removed or pinched back. During the summer the plant should be allowed to grow undisturbed, except tying up the shoots; the more foliage the more strength will the roots attain. The question is frequently asked, "At what age should a vine be allowed to bear?" The only answer that can be given is, simply, when it is strong enough; and it should be cut down closely at the annual winter pruning until it sends up a cane of sufficient strength to bear fruit, which it will do, in ordinary culture, the second summer from planting.

PECULIARITIES OF VARIETIES.

Of the Labrusca or Fox species, the most exempt from mildew are the Concord, Hartford Prolific, Ives's Seedling, Dracut Amber, and Northern Muscadine. All of the Cordifolia species are eminently hardy; mildew or rot rarely attacks them. The Clinton is a familiar example of this class, and the most reliable wine grapes will ultimately be produced from improved varieties of this section. The following is the average order of ripening of some of the earliest varieties: Adirondac, Hartford Prolific, Roger's Hybrid No. 3, Dracut Amber, Delaware, Concord, Logan, Creveling, Ives's Seedling, Roger's Hybrid No. 4, Canby's August, Allen's Hybrid, &c. It may be remarked that the same varieties do not always ripen in the same rotation even on the same grounds and location.

The best fox-grapes, or those having a strong musky flavor with great sweetness, are the Dracut Amber, Rachel, Northern Muscadine, and Perkins. These are all robust, and very hardy and productive; excellent for giving the genuine American flavor to wine, which will probably, in course of time, be regarded as a distinguishing characteristic of native wines. They are also good table grapes to those who admire this flavor, a taste for which exists to a larger extent than is generally supposed. Such strong wood-producing varieties as Clinton, Taylor, Alvey, Franklin, etc., do not require to be so closely pruned in the fall as those of less robust habit. They should be allowed considerable extent of trellis or support, so that they can extend the yearly growths to lengths of twelve to sixteen feet, and pruned back but slightly; fruit will then be produced profusely; but, if closely cut in winter, a mass of wood growth only will be the result.

The To Kalon is particularly subject to rot, so much so that it is not a profitable kind to plant.

Of white grapes, the Cassidy and Anna are the most productive, Rebecca and Maxatawny best flavored. Allen's Hybrid and Clara are also good, but being seedlings from foreign varieties, are not always reliable. When they can be protected from mildew, satisfactory crops will be produced. Taylor is a poor bearer, unless on thin soils and with but little done to it in winter pruning. The Concord still maintains its supremacy (all things considered) as the best native grape for general cultivation; although subject (with all of its family) to rot, yet it always produces a fair crop, and being but little troubled with leaf mildew, the wood is well ripened, and consequently is least injured during winter. The Delaware is first-class, but not always reliable. The same may be noted of the Diana and Catawba, fruits of first quality when had in perfection. The Yeddo grape, from Japan, continues to prove unsatisfactory; very liable to mildew, and very late in maturing even when in health; fruit not of first quality when compared with the best native varieties.

Of the Roger's Hybrids there are some very promising varieties. No. 3 is decidedly a good early grape. No. 4 large and fine in bunch and berry, and of medium quality in flavor. No. 1 is productive, later in ripening, but a white

fruit of great promise. No. 15, large and very fine. No. 22, high flavored and ripening quite early. These vines are just about as subject to mildew as Catawba and Isabella, are very much better here than when grown where they originated-in this respect resembling the Concord and some other varieties. The Alvey proves to be a very sweet, tender skinned grape, and may be found of value for wine. It is not objectionable as a table grape.

Ives's Seedling proves very hardy and reliable, but not equal to Concord as a table grape. Said to be valuable as a wine grape.

MILDEW.

This is the great obstacle in the way of extended grape culture, and although the facts connected with its external appearance are very easily traced, the physiological condition of the plant when attacked, and the modus operandi of the progress of the disease, have given rise to much speculation, and some very strange fancies have been promulgated on the subject; but, unfortunately, none of them have proved to be of much advantage to the fruit grower. So far, the following points have been deduced from observation:

1. That mildew on the leaves of the grape is mainly the result of atmospheric influences.

2. The Peronospora, or mildew, that attacks the leaves on their under surface, is encouraged by the atmospherical conditions accompanying dull, cloudy weather, with occasional showers; or when heavy dews are deposited in positions where the rays of the sun cannot penetrate, or, at least, where the moisture cannot readily be evaporated.

3. That, so far as is known, no peculiar constitution of soil, or mode of soil culture, has any influence in its prevention.

4. That, so far as known, no mode of pruning or training, except so far as they agree with the fifth paragraph, has any effect in warding off the disease. 5. That shelter and protection by covered trellises, or masses of foliage, will greatly modify, if not entirely prevent injury from mildew.

6. That varieties of grapes having downy foliage are much more liable to be attacked than those that are smooth or shining.

7. That all grapes having downy foliage are not equally sensitive to the conditions favorable to the fungoid development, but where a pubescent foliage and a smooth foliage are growing side by side, the former, even of the most robust variety, may be attacked while the latter may be exempt from injury.

8. That the appearance termed sun scald is simply the result of this mildew. 9. That timely and repeated applications of sulphur, dusted on the foliage, will check the growth of fungi.

This

Occasionally another form of mildew may be observed on the vine. shows itself on the upper surface of the foliage, giving the leaves the appearance of having been dusted with flour; this belongs to the Erysiphe family of mil dews, and, although very destructive, is not so fatal as the Peronospora. This floury looking substance can easily be removed by brushing the foliage; it is most frequently to be seen on foreign grapes, but may be observed on native varieties in seasons of extreme drought-dry weather seeming to favor the spread of this particular species. The young fruit and even young shoots are sometimes coated with this mildew. It retards growth and injures the plant attacked, so that it is easily destroyed by slight frosts. Sulphur will both prevent and cure it.

CAUSES AFFECTING THE HARDINESS OF PLANTS.

The occasional destruction of fruit trees and vines during winter is one of the many annoyances experienced by the cultivator; and it is all the more perplexing when it is found that a plant will sometimes be destroyed by a less degree

of cold than it previously endured without the slightest injury. The amount of cold that plants are capable of resisting is a question of much interest, more especially when we reflect that the power of resistance is dependent upon circumstances which are, to a certain extent, under control.

The necessity for protecting plants, even those of reputed hardiness, from the injurious effects of alternate freezing and thawing, is now admitted by the best cultivators, although it is not unusual to meet with those who pretend to place no value upon a plant that cannot "take care of itself;" as if it was not the province of man to assist nature in producing such results as he finds most profitable and useful. Those who "leave plants to nature," after placing them under artificial positions, only frame an excuse for ignorance or indolence.

It has never been shown that frost is beneficial to plants; but it is a growing and well-grounded opinion, founded upon experience and observation, that many of the diseases of plants result from repeated injuries during severe frosts and extreme changes of temperature throughout the winter months. The exact manner in which plants are killed by cold has formed a subject of much speculation. The commonly received opinion is, that frost acts mechanically upon vegetable tissue by expanding their fluids and bursting the cells or vessels in which they are enclosed. This explanation, however, is not sufficient to account for all the phenomena attending the death of plants from cold. Doubtless many plants, especially those of a very succulent nature, may be destroyed from the disruption of tissue by the expansion of the sap in freezing. But it is also well known that the extraction of moisture by evaporation, when in contact with a continual cold, dry atmosphere, very frequently proves fatal. Thus it is that many plants which do not seem to be injured in the slightest by a degree of cold sufficient to freeze the sap, are destroyed by the keen, dry winds of spring, even when the thermometer, is above freezing; and hence it is that grapes, roses, raspberries, and other plants suffer more from March winds than they do from January frosts; and hence also the utility of protecting against this destructive evaporation. The effect of these drying winds is apparent in the shrivelled and dried appearance of the buds and bark; and although there is less likelihood of injury to thoroughly matured growths, yet it is in accordance both with theory and observation that plants whose juices are preserved by proper protection during winter will shoot forth more vigorously in spring, are more fruitful, and arrive earlier at maturity than those not sheltered from climatic extremes.

It cannot be too vividly impressed upon the mind of the cultivator that the ripening of the seasonal growth is the greatest desideratum. How much of the disappointment in fruit culture arises from excessive stimulation of shoots that never become mature, it would be no easy task to determine. We are convinced that the time is rapidly approaching when planting fruit trees and vines in highly enriched soil, and treating them with heavy dressings of nitrogenous manures, will be looked upon as conclusive evidence of unskilled culture. Not that all stimulation is unnecessary, but that the production of mere wood-growth and the production of fruit are distinct, and may be carried so far as to become antagonistic processes, and must be recognized before the highest excellence in fruit culture can be attained.

On the best means of prevention from the evil effects of freezing plants, the following remarks of Lindley are to the point: "The mechanical action of frost may, however, undoubtedly be guarded against to a great extent. It is well known that the same plant growing in a dry climate, or in a dry soil, or in a situation thoroughly drained from water during winter, will resist much more cold than if cultivated in a damp climate, or in wet soil, or in a place affected by water in winter. Whatever tends to render tissue moist, will increase its power of conducting heat, and consequently augment the susceptibility of plants to the influence of frost; and whatever tends to diminish their humidity, will also diminish their conducting power, and with it their susceptibility. This is