as a Neighbour from a Canadian Point of View. - An Account of the Conquest of Guatemala in 1594: Pedro de Alvarado. Memories of a Tenderfoot. Argentinien-Chile von Heute. - In Unknown New Guinea. - Way Back in Papua. - A Primitive Arcadia: Impression in Papua. - My Crowded Solitude. - The Adventure of Wrangel Island. - Phototopography. - A Text-Book of Geology. - The Cambridge Ancient History. Vols. 2 and 3.- Economic Position of Yugoslavia.---History of Settlement in East Prussia. Colonel Kozlov's Mongolian Expedition. - Development of Northern Natal and Zululand.-Hydro-electric power develop- ments in New Zealand.-Echo-Soundings in the Indian Ocean south of Java. - Ancient Climates.-Australian Memorial to David Carnegie.-A Rare Account of Cook's Last Voyage. -The Earliest Maps. Memorial to Members of the Canadian Arctic Expedition 168 Meetings: Royal Geographical Society: Session 1925-1926 Map to illustrate "The Geography of the Mosul Boundary," by Major Summer in North-East Land, 1924: The Climate and Surface Changes. K. S. Sandford, Department of Geology, Oxford (with 4 Plates The Problem of the Shaksgam Valley. Col. Sir F. Younghusband, 'Aidhab. G. W. Murray, Survey of Egypt (with Sketch-map) The Economic Development of Tropical Africa and its Effect on the Native Population. The Hon. W. Ormsby-Gore, M.P. New War Office Maps of Africa and Asia. Col. Sir C. F. Close and Results from the De Filippi Expedition to the Karakorum: Review. Spanish Towns and People. - Concerning Corsica. - A Wayfarer in Alsace.-A Student in Sicily. - Francis Mortoft: His Book; 1658-9.- Modern Turkey. - Turkey in Travail. - Modern Europe and its Beginnings. - Courts and Camps in India, 1921-1924. - Roving through Southern China. - The Dwellers on the Nile. - Adventures of Exploration. - Among the Bantu Nomads. Découverte de l'Amérique par les Normands vers l'an 1000. New York City: A Guide Book. - A Tropical Tramp with the por el R. P. F. Francisco Ximenez. - A Walk about in A Memorial to Lord Curzon. Origin of the Bath Springs.- Foreigners in Rural France. Influence of the Baltic on Surround- ing Vegetation.-Swedish Explorations in Central Borneo.-Aerial Survey of the Tidal Forests of the Irrawaddy.-Preservation of Vegetation of South Australia. Dr. Lauge Koch's New Green- land Expedition. Raised Beaches and River Terraces.-Regions without Drainage to the Oceans. -The Imperial Institute and the Kabba Province, Northern Provinces, Nigeria. C. R. Niven (with Through Northern Australia. Michael Terry (with 4 Plates and Sketch- Some Early County Maps. Edward Heawood, Librarian, R.G.S.. The Scott Tragedy: Review. R. E. Priestley An Agricultural Atlas: Review. C. B. F. . U-shaped Mountain and Fold Line: Review. J. W. Gregory Prehistoric London - A Wayfarer in Provence. - Von der Pyrenäen zum Nil. - The Economic Development of Russia, 1905-1914. - The Mammoth and Mammoth Hunting in North-East Siberia. An Adventurous Journey. - Malay Land. "Tanah Malayu." - The Vegetation of Burma from an Ecological Standpoint. - Dig- ging for Lost African Gods. - On the Roof of the Rockies. - Porto Rico, History and Conditions. - Economic Geography of South America. - A Historical Geography of the British Dominions. Vol. VI. Australia. Traité de Géographie Physique. - The Soil Irrigation and Inland Transport in South-Eastern France.-Geology and Mineral Resources of Nyasaland.-Tides and Currents in San Francisco Bay. - Scottish National Memorial to David Livingstone Obituary-Gertrude Lowthian Bell (with Plate). D. G. H. Correspondence-" Dutch Geography in an English Text-book." L. W. Maps. 347 Sketch-map of Kabba Province, Northern Nigeria 291 305 Darwin's Chile. Dr. Frank M. Chapman (with 6 Plates) The Structure of the Eastern Flank of the Rift Valley near Nairobi. H. L. Sikes, Director of Public Works, Kenya Colony (with 4 Plates Geography at the Imperial Institute. L. W. Lyde and B. Hosgood 418 The First Westward Voyage from Europe to Japan, 1598-1600: Review -A Naturalist in East Africa. - Wonderland of the Old South- Maps of Ireland to 1700.- Flemish Towns. -Geomorphology of S.W. Central Asia.-Gold Coast Survey Dept. - Bottom Deposits of Lake Ontario. Canadian Arctic. - Population of New Zealand.-Dol- drums of the Atlantic. - Plant Distribution in the Pacific Notes on the Solomon Islands. C. M. Woodford, C.M.G. Volcanic Action north of Rudolf in 1918. Capt. W. Pennefather Hol- The British Isles in the Nautical Charts of the XIVth and XVth Kilmanjaro and Some Observations on the Physiology of High Altitudes in the Tropics. D. V. Latham, M.B., Medical Officer, E.A.M.S. Finland To-day. - Czechoslovakia. Macedonia, Thrace, and Illyria: Their Relations to Greece... to the time of Philip. - British Malaya. - The Economic Position of Persia. - The Orient I found. - The Voyage of the Dayspring. - Impressions. Nigeria, 1925. Heirs of the Incas. Acoma, the Sky City. - Florida. - The Tide. Glacial Observations in the French Alps.- Continentality Map of Germany.-Canal for Northern Italy. --Scientific Trip in South Palestine.-Journey of Gabet and Huc to Lhasa.-Italian Fund for Study of Palestine.-Agriculture in Cent. America. A New The Geographical Journal Vol. LXVIII No. I July 1926 THE CONQUEST OF MOUNT LOGAN H. F. Lambart, B.Sc., D.L.S., Vice-President Alpine Club of Canada Read at the Meeting of the Society, 12 April 1926, by Dr. T. G. Longstaff. Folding Map follows p. 96. THE HE Mount Logan Region.-Mount Logan (19,850 feet), the highest mountain in the Dominion of Canada and ranking second only to Mount McKinley (20,460 feet)- the highest point on the North American Continent-is in the extreme south-western corner of the Yukon Territory, some 21 miles to the east of the Alaskan Boundary and only 60 miles from the shores of the Pacific Ocean. Strange to say, though it may be clearly seen from a point 125 miles out to sea, the existence of this great mountain remained unknown until the year 1891, when I. C. Russell, of the U.S. Geological Survey, saw it from a point of vantage on the foothills of the St. Elias Alps to the south, and reported the discovery in the following interesting way: "The clouds parted towards the north-east, revealing several giant peaks not before seen, some of which seemed to rival St. Elias itself. One stranger, rising in three white domes far above the clouds, was especially magnificent. As this was probably the first time its summit was ever seen, we took the liberty of giving it a name. It will appear on our maps as Mount Logan, in honour of Sir William E. Logan, founder and long director of the Geological Survey of Canada" (see vol. 3 of the National Geographic Magazine, 1891). Apart from the South Polar ice-cap and the interior of Greenland, this region of which Mount Logan is the predominating feature presents what is probably the most intensely glaciated district of the globe, and in its awful silence, its absence of any forms of life, vegetation, or running water, one sees a picture of the utter desolation which once existed during the great Glacial periods of the Earth's history. This region, rather difficult to define with accuracy, comprises some 12,000 square miles of territory, extending back from the coast over 100 miles and reaching from the Bering glacier on the west to Disenchantment Bay on the east, a distance of 125 miles. Mount Logan. -The main mountain system of this region has B hitherto been referred to as the St. Elias Alps, since the great peak of that name was long considered to be the monarch of all the vast and nameless heights which constitute the range. Mount Logan, now known to be the crowning peak of them all, lies 26 miles farther in from the coast than St. Elias, and is so obscured by the ranges nearer the coast as to be hardly recognizable from the sea. It rises 14,000 feet above its surrounding glaciers in a colossal mass of rock which appears, from specimens taken at an elevation of 18,500 feet, to be chiefly biotite-diorite gneiss. The north and south walls present continuous precipitous cliffs of sheer rock so steep that no snow can lodge upon them, while the east and west.extremities of the mass are marked by two subsidiary peaks, one on either side, McArthur Peak (14,000 feet) on the east and King Peak (17,130 feet) on the west. It was not, however, until the publication of the wonderful photographs taken by Signor Sella, of the Duke of the Abruzzi's famous expedition which conquered Mount St. Elias, that any true conception was obtained of the immense bulk of the Logan massif. If this mountain were cut through at the 16,000-foot level it would be found to be 11 miles in length east and west, and would consist of a plateau 30 square miles in area. Above the 16,000-foot level is built up an amazingly complicated system of glaciers, snowfields, ridges, and peaks, rising all the way from 18,000 feet at the extreme western end to the highest, 19,850 feet, on the eastern. The great mass of Mount Logan towers 10,000 to 14,000 feet above the glaciers at its base, which lie about the 6000-foot level. From the innumerable indentations at its base, which stretches for 24 miles east and west, spring glaciers which are tributaries of the two great glaciers of the region-the Logan glacier on the north side, and the Seward and Columbus on the south. The Logan, having a width of 21 to 4 miles, has a main trunk 50 miles long flowing westerly, which forms the main source of the Chitina river. On the south, issuing from vast névés, the Seward launches its mighty bulk and forms the principal tributary of the Malaspina glacier. The History of the Expedition. As soon as it was known that far to the north a knightly and defiant peak-cut off from civilization by rivers of ice and entrenched among a thousand barriers of snow-lay waiting attack, the mountaineers of this continent began to turn their eyes to Mount Logan and to dream of its conquest. It was not, however, until the year 1922 that Professor A. P. Coleman, of the University of Toronto, the veteran geologist and mountain climber, presented to the Alpine Club of Canada the suggestion that a serious attempt should be made to conquer the mountain. In the autumn of 1923 the Club called a special meeting in Vancouver to consider seriously Professor Coleman's proposal. This meeting made the momentous decision that an expedition should be undertaken, appointed an Executive Committee, and tentatively named the personnel of the climbing party. The sister |