United States, I attached importance to his remarks. This voyage was one of the most interesting I made. The number of passengers might be about sixty, about one third of whom were foreigners, there being persons from eight different countries. I found out and made this circumstance known, when it excited a lively interest. To learn the opinions of persons from so many different countries, of that in which they were, was both entertaining and instructive. I think it right to add that all spoke more favourably than otherwise. I was conversing with some Germans when a Dane who spoke their language with tolerable fluency joined us. We became quite in high glee; but whatever laughs were made at American peculiarities, there was no other than a cordial feeling to the citizens in general.

I have now perhaps written more than enough to show what the traveller in America may expect to meet; yet I think it right to add that in many places, I found tavern-keepers who showed me a kindness beyond that required by their calling. This probably arose from the familiarity I constantly adopted. Though in England I had not been in the habit of conversing with persons in their station in a similar

manner, I considered that it was best in America not only to conform to established customs, but to avail myself of every chance of learning something new and confirming or correcting what I had learnt. The plan I found had its advantages, The hostess of the house at which I stopped at Buffalo on Lake Erie, gave me an interesting account of the skirmishes in Canada during the late war. Not only was her conversation pleasing, but her manners were soft and considerably refined. A widow at a solitary house distant about seven miles from Buffalo communicated some particulars of the Indians in the vicinity. She was an animated woman; and though removed from society by her remote situation, one who knew how to demean herself with great propriety. She begged that if I should ever go that road again I would give them a call. This was not spoken in reference to her wishing my custom, but to show her friendly feeling to a foreigner, I was sensible of it by her tone and manner. The landlord of an inn in Connecticut answered my enquiries respecting the Shakers, who have a settlement near his house; and seemed both capable and ready to give me information of every sort respecting the vicinity. One of his daughters was beautiful and fascinating. I held a long conver

sation with her, and found her quite intelligent. The morning I spent at this house is one to which I recur with pleasure. At the inn at Harper's Ferry in Virginia, I met a gentleman and his wife from Tennessee; they, the mistress of the house and her daughter, with myself, passed a sociable evening together conversing principally on literary topics. The master who had been from home, returned on the following morning. He was a Protestant, his wife and daughter Catholics. All of them behaved in an agreeable manner; and made me feel as if I were at home. His bookcase contained some valuable historical works of which while I staid I made good use. Books are so scarce in most

country places in America, that when I happened of a few, I found myself as refreshed as after bathing in cold water in a hot day.

CHAPTER IV.

THE MEN.

IN the remarks I am about to make on the men, I shall confine myself principally to their habits and behaviour, reserving some remarks on their character to a future chapter.

One of the first things that strikes the attention of a stranger in America, is the coldness and apparent heartlessness with which they greet an acquaintance. Their deportment is quite chilling.

Yet it is soon perceptible that this arises not so much from apathy as from habit. It is however proper to observe that the Virginians are to be exempted from this particular, since they are not at all backward to manifest their feelings. Of the men in general it is notwithstanding to be said, that they never show that boisterousness of manner so common with the Irish. In their houses, they lounge when seated, in a way which in some other countries, would be viewed as quite indecorous. It is quite common even in company to lean back in the chair so as to let it stand on its hind legs;

and when in this position near a fire, they will sometimes place their feet against the mantle piece. Imagine a man sitting in this manner with a segar in his mouth, and you have a complete picture of American independence! So general, and indeed almost universal is the habit of lounging, that I noticed in the Supreme Court of Massachusetts sitting at Boston, counsellors when engaged in a cause leaning back in the way I have described; and at Harrisburg in Pennsylvania, legislators with their legs stretched on the writing desk before them! The same habits I noticed in courts of justice in several other states, and in the House of Representatives at Washington. True it is that there are many gentlemen who are careful to avoid lounging, more especially in company, but they are exceptions to the generality.

The dirty, disagreeable practice of snuff taking, so prevalent in Europe, is but little in vogue: but then smoking and chewing tobacco, both nearly as bad, are very general. The idea of the soothing tendency, and consequent utility of smoking in concentrating thought, is urged in its favour, but chiefly by those who think, or at least reason but little. The most active minds need not its assistance. Bonaparte never smoked.