Church, as dedicated to St. Aidan, first Bishop of Lindisfarne, and may justly be termed a fine structure of the early part of the thirteenth century. It is bold in design, chaste in proportion and arrangement, and the same characteristic runs throughout the entire structure. Before attempting to deal with the architecutural features of this great historic church, let me briefly state that it was at Bamburgh where one of the first Christian Temples in ancient Northumbria was reared. Shortly after Aidan's appointment, in 635, to the see of Leindisfarne, he appears to have made Bamburgh one of his chief places of resort. Previous to that time, Bede says, "There was no altar throughout the Kingdom of Northumbria." It was through Oswald's influence that the Bishop was induced to leave the "sea-girl island of Iona" with the view of converting the natives from heathenism to Christianity. For nine years Aidan labored in the northern kingdom, and it was during those short eventful years that a church, chiefly composed of wood, was first built at Bamburgh. At the west end of the structure was a small apartment, and it was here where the Bishop was reposing, his head reclining against a buttress which supported the erection, when the news arrived of the death of Oswin. St. Aidan felt the blow so keenly that he soon sickened and died. That a church dating from Saxon times existed at Bamburgh at the time of the Conquest is certain, but there are no remains about the present structure that can be associated with those times. In the absence of any I am led to infer that the ancient church was composed principally of wood. This opinion would almost apply to what is known as the Norman period; for if there are no existing proofs of a Saxon church, neither is there any trace of Norman remains. If this conjecture is right then we may readily conclude that the Saxon church did duty down to the time of the twelfth century, when it was superseded by the present graceful edifice.

One of the most interesting objects connected with this church is the small Crypt which exists under the floor of the chancel. For many years all trace of this fine mediaeval remain was hidden, and it was not till 1837, when certain repairs were being carried out about the chancel, that some workmen engaged came upon an opening in the floor which led to chambers underneath. After an entrance had been affected, the apartments were found to be filled with rubbish, this device having no doubt been resorted to shortly after the death of Mr. B. Foster, who is reported as having been the last of the name buried in this part of the church.

The date of the Crypt is undoubtedly co-eval with the chancel. The discovery of this chamber in 1837 led to further excavations being made, which resulted in a passage being exposed at the east end of the structure that led to the underground chamber. This approach, which is in close contiquity to the chancel, may be described as a narrow passage, and being a good depth under the surface of the churchyard, is almost unique in style and arrangement. At the terminus of the

passage a beautiful pointed doorway opens into the chamber.

There is evidence about this interesting remain to show that in ancient times when border feuds and state intriques were constantly being fermented, it would be used by the brethren at the adjoining monastry as a chapel or alter, and it was not till more recent times that it came to be used as a charnel house for the dead.

As much interest is centered in the Crypt, not only from an architectural point of view and the use for which it may have been intended, but more especially as being so closely connected with the Forsters of Northumberland. We have, through the kindness of the Rev. Arthur Octavius Medd, formerly vicar of Bamburgh, been fortunate in getting access to some papers in the possession of Miss E. Carr of Bamburgh, which belonged to her father, the late Mr. Wm. Carr, who died in 1861, aged 76 years. Of course, architecturally, the documents are not of much value, but historically they are full of local interest, especially the following, showing the state of the Crypt and its contents as discovered on Tuesday, July 25, 1837.

"Examined the vaults beneath Bamburgh Church, sometime called the Death House, and sometime the vault of the Forsters."

The oak planks which supported the floor were entirely decayed, and on their removal there appeared a flight of stone stairs, leading to the apartments below. On examination this was found to pass through the original wall of the vaults and terminate in a long-arched chamber, like a passage of worked stone, the arch having been finished with plaster resting on a cornice, and with a narrow window at the east end."

"The different proofings of the floor, apparently through light rubbish, under and near the window, seem to favor the tradition current at Bamburgh that there was a subterranean passage from the religious house, directly opposite to the east end of the chancel."

"At the foot of the steps was a square opening which led to a second chamber, the sides of which had been rudely broken, and which had the appearance of having been a doorway. This apartment, which possessed a groined stone roof, and other peculiarities of the gothic period, may justly be termed a fine chamber. At the east end on a stone platform were laid five coffins which were made to rest from north to south. Between the south wall and the columns there was an intermediate space of about two and a half feet. In the south wall was a piscina, which was lighted by a narrow lancet window. At the east end are two other windows of a similar character, and on the south side was a large doorway, traces of which may be seen on the walls of the chancel. In the roof was a staple, probably for suspending a lamp. We could not find a floor, and sticks went down three feet without interruption. This apartment has undoubtedly been a chapel. The chambers and passage are well ventilated and entirely free from dampness."

The foregoing coffins are enumerated as follows:

I. Mr. B. Forster, of Adderstone, 1765; the body of John or Wm. had been removed so as to make room for this coffin.

2.

of Rock.

Fernando Foster, murdered at Newcastle Aug. 22, 1701, by John Fenwick,

3. John or Wm. Forster, 1700.

4. General Forster, implicated in the Rebellion of 1715. This distinguished individual would seem, after his escape from Newgate, to have settled down in France. He died in 1738, and his remains were brought to England. His funeral was entirely private. In addition to the hearse drawn by one horse, a confidential servant of the deceased was all that made up the funeral cortege when the remains of the rebel General were consigned to their last resting place in Bamburgh church. 5. Dorothy Forster, married in 1739, to one of the name of Armstrong. The latter is described as having been a man of "inferior person." Mr. Armstrong and his wife lived for a while at Bamburgh Friars. Dorothy died at Crookham, in this county, on the 5th of May, 1771.

The first coffin was perfect; the second, of wood only, had fallen to pieces, but there remained the whole trace of a figure, the legs and thigh bones entire, and in place of the skull, on which the coffin lid had fallen, was mass of white dust, like lime. The third was in much the same state, but in this case the skull of the figure had not crumbled to dust. The fourth was perfect, except only the cloth covering the outer coffin of elm, and was entire and strong. It is reported that thirty years previous to this an opening had been made near the foot to ascertain the presence of this body, which had been disputed. It rested in sawdust closely packed; the linen clothes were there, and the legs were fleshy and perfect. No further examination at that time was made. Mr. Embleton thought he detected the smell of hartshorn near this coffin. The fifth was in a bad state, having fallen to pieces, so the remains were not exumed. A few years ago a coffin was dug up in the chancel, it never having had a body in it, which strengthened the supposition that General Forster's body was not in the vault. This said General Foster was condemned to death, and only delivered from prison by the intrepid devotion of his sister Dorothy, who now lies by his side in the vault. It is generally averred that a mock funeral took place at Bamburgh some few years previous to the death of General Forster in 1738, and the coffin discovered in the chancel, and alluded to in Carr's notes, most probably points to this event. A somewhat similar report to this is given by Amelia, Countess of Derwentwater, as she styled herself after the death of the only son of James, the last Earl of Derwentwater. This lady alleged that the reported death of the Earl's son was a complete fabrication, and only intended to divert the animosity that was in those days evinced against those who espoused the cause of the Stuarts. This good lady further alleged that the young scion of "Radcliffe's fair domain," ultimately banished himself to a foreign land, where he lived to an old age, and died in the greatest obscurity. With regard to the murder of Fernando Forster, one of the members of Parliament for the county of Northumberland, we get a very accurate account of the quarrel from Alderman Hoarby's manuscript notes to Brand: "He says he takes for his authority Edward Collingwood, Esq., Recorder of Newcastle, who informed me that his father was present when the quarrel happened. The company consisted of the whole or part of the Grand Jury of Northumberland, and probably during that state of conviviality which prevailed much on these occasions about that period, Mr. Fenwick came in singing a favorite party song, the burthen of which was, "Sir John Fenwick, the flower among them." This brought on some altercation betwixt him and Mr. Forster, but the company interfering, the matter was supposed to be quite settled. The next morning the

parties met accidentally near the White Cross, the altercation was renewed, swords were drawn, and Mr. Forster killed."

One of the windows at the west end of the church contains full length figures of St. Aidan, the apostle of Northumbria, and St. Cuthbert. Both of the saints are arrayed in their episcopal robes. In the arms of St. Cuthbert is the head of St. Oswald. This window was manufactured by Messrs. Hardman, of Birmingham, and was the gift of Mrs. Forster, of Tuggal. In the interior are several chaste and beautiful tablets, monuments, and tombstones. On the north side of the chancel and within the altar rails is a tablet to the memory of Sir Claudius Forster, Bart. He was created a baronet on the 7th of March, 1619, and it was to this same Sir Claudius that the castle and manor were granted in the reign of James I. The following inscription in Latin appears upon the tablet:

Scio quod Redemptor M': vivit in Cælo Sta: Sal: D.

Claudius Forsterus, Esques Aurat et Baronetlus antiqua numerosa et noble Forsteroru familia in Com. Northumb oriundus Dno. Nicolas Forster, qui 37 Anos Mediar Marchiar: Scotia vers Dns Guardian extitil filiet haeres Horvoratiss etiam Dns. Cumbriæ et Bedf: Comitibus neceron insigni et illustri Fenwicoru progenie, totique sanguine conjunct; Castridenque Bamburg Dns. Senescal et summ: Constabulari; Obüt in manerio suo de Alba Terra in Comit: Northumb: Anno Sal: Nost 1623.

Memoriæ sacrum lugens posuit uxor egies Dwa: Elizabetha.
Guliebma Fenwick d Wallingtonia, Equitis Aurati.

The following inscription will be found on a monument to the Forsters in the chancel: "In the vault below lie buried the bodyes of William, John and Ferdinand, sons of Wm. Forster* of Bamburgh, Knt., by Dorothy, daughter of Sir Wm. Selby, of Twisdale, Bart., and Elanor, daughter of Ferdinand, Lord of Fairfax, of Denton. William was born 28th July, 1666; married Elizabeth, dau. of Wm. Pert, Esq.; died 1st September, 1700, without issue. John was born 21st September, 1668; died 15th November, 1669. Ferdinand, born 14th February, 1699; died 22d August, 1701. Both unmarried."

They had another brother, Nicolas, who died young, and was buried in the Church of Saint Mary in the South Bailey at Durham. So also five sisters: Elanor and Dorothy, who died young; Frances married Thomas Foster, of Etherstone, Esq., by whom she had several children; Mary who died unmarried; and Dorothy, wife of the Right Hon. Lord Crewe, Lord Bishop of Durham, of whom their mother died. She being the only one remaining of the family, set up this monument in memory of her dear brothers, as a last respect that could be paid them for their affection to the church, ye monarchy, their country, and their sister, A. D., 1711; this being the burying place of their ancestors.

On the north side of the chancel, and within the enclosure, is hung the helmet, breastplate, sword and glove of Ferdinando Forster, Esq.

5

In 1857 a paper was found in the helmet of the aforesaid Ferdinando Forster, Esq., and upon it was written the following: "Prayer and blessing to you and your wife, your son Dawson and his wife, hoping these few lines will find you in good health at present, praised be God for it. I have it to testifie of, I have sent you some hose yarn and a yard of and I desire you to send me money of butter- comes to Ios for having to money for my husband left me betwixt to pay when he died, and I do intend a deed (or gift) of all I am of, &c." Before leaving the structure, there are certain legends and traditions about the building to which I will allude.' The first of these is concerning the slight deflection in a southerly direction of the chancel arch; a similar divergence also exists in one of the transept arches. Mr. Wilson, in his "Churches of Lindisfarne," says: That some authorities regard the deflection as depicting the 'head of Christ as He hung upon the cross.' "Others again imagine that it is intended to mark a spot in the sky, at which the sun rose on the day of the death of St. Aidan. To those who are fond of ancient and legendary lore, few ideas can be more congenial than these here advanced; but in most cases wherever deflections exist, either in arches or main walls, they may possibly be found to have been caused by some temporary derangement, such as the making of vaults and graves in close contiguity to the principal walls of the building. Concerning the lychnoscopes on the north and south sides of the chancel, which are marked by a low narrow window with trefoil

*Born Nov. 12, 1624, P. R.

Ob 26th September; B. 30, 1672, P. R.

heading, there are some who think that the openings may have been intended to emit the light which burned before the altar, in order that it might scare the evil spirits from the graves of the newly buried in the churchyard. Another tradition exists, which is that a subterranean passage connected the monastery with the church; but up to the present have been found about the building to favor such a conjecture.

Only once, between the reign of Henry I., and that of John, 1197, is there any mention of the church, and this is during the time of Richard Coeur de Lion, when Bamburgh contributed five marks toward the exchequer.

In 1725 the church was still in a bad state, the following document, supplied by the Rev. Canon Carr, of Whickham, and Rural Dean of Ryton, which bears upon the state of the church during the early part of last century will read with interest. Canon Carr procured a copy of the report from one in the possession of the Rev. G. Wilkinson, of Harperley Hall, in the county of Durham. The survey was made in the above year by the Rev. Dick, or Dickson, who was Vicar of Norham. In this report it is stated that "Bamburgh is a curacy, and that the income from all sources amounted to 125, 3s. 4d." It is further stated "that the living is endowed, and has belonging to it a chapel of ease, four miles from the mother church, called Beadnell, where there is divine service once a month only, in the afternoon. It is in the gift of the five trustees." "The Church of Bamburgh was in a very bad condition, a great part of it being uncovered and lying exposed to any profanation; but since this Archdeacon's visitation, the isles that were down are rebuilt, and cover'd with lead, the floor is new flag'd, and the walls plaster'd and whitewash'd, and all things therein are decent and becoming. The church is large, and the chancel very spacious, wh was some yrs ago repaired and beautified by the late Ld Rp of Durham. There is also in the vestry a small parochial library, consisting of about 60 vols., wh was lately begun, and is now increasing by the voluntary subscriptions of the gentlemen of the parish." "The parish is of gt extent, and very populous, and as wealthy. There are few Dissenters in it of any denomination. There is a small glebe, and no means remaining, for wh reason the gentlemen of the vestry, from time to time, and now, have settled upon the curate a commodious farm, with a good house upon it, for wh he is to pay 12lb per annm into the vestry for the repairs of the Ch and procuring the elements for the H. Communion.

The gt Tythes are in the possession of the

Earl of Tankerville,

Mr. Henry Neville Grey,

Mr. Forster, of Adderstone,

And some other gentlemen.'

The document is interesting, as it gives a good deal of information upon the state of the church during the early part of the eighteenth century. From this record we gather that the building was rescued from the dilapidated state it had fallen into through the munificence of Lord Crewe. Previous to the time of this Bishop, the church had got into a bad and ruinous condition. That the Forsters would take a great interest in the building is only natural, so that after Lord Crewe's marriage with Miss Dorothea Forster, it is not surprising that one of his first acts in the parish was to restore the ancient structure. In the year following his marriage he strengthened the family ties when he purchased a rent charge of £500 a year on the estates of the Forsters, and for which he paid the sum of £10,000. This bill was sanctioned by the Court of Chancery for the payment of certain debts that had been secured on the property. And this was followed up in 1704 by several creditors presenting another bill, in which they petitioned the court to have the whole of the estates sold for the payment of debts incurred by William and Ferdinando Forster. The court complied with the petition, and the whole of the property was offered for sale, whereupon Lord Crewe was declared to be the purchaser, for the sum of £20,679 IOS. In the latter sum was included in the purchase a life rent charge of £350 a year, payable to Elizabeth, widow of Wm. Forster. It was not till 1709 that the deed confirming the sale was enrolled in Chancery, and that after all debts had been paid there only remained for Lady Crewe and Thomas Forster, the rebel general, the sum of £1,028, 15s. 7d. Thus it will be seen that six years previous to the Rebellion of 1715, the Forsters had nearly exhausted the whole of their once wide possessions.

How the church acquired possession of the Fowberry estate, there appears to be no record. But as this would form part of the ancient manor, it is not improbable that it would be conferred by Lord Crewe about the time that he became the purchaser of the estates of the Forsters.

There were two chantries in Bamburgh Church, one of which was endowed by the ancient Earls of Devilstone or Derwentwater, from lands held by them at Spindlestone. This altar stood in the north transept, and for several years was the burying place of the Greys of Shoreston Hall. The registers of Bamburgh Church commenced in 1653, and from this time down to 1760 are very imperfect. Among Miss Carr's papers the following occurs: "Thos. Forster of Edderstone had a daughter bap. Eliz., Aug. 14, 1684. Godfather was Mr. Ralph Forster of Halton's son who stood up for Mr. John Forster. Godmothers were Mrs. Betty Forster, Mr. Francis Forster's daughter, of Durham, and Mr. Grey's younger daughr. Thos. Forster of Adderstone had son bap., Willm., Nov. 1, 1685. Godfathers were Esq. Forster of Balmbro, Mr. Robt. Hebburn of Hebburn, and Mrs. Mary Forster, Mr. Ralph Forster, Halton's daughr. Thomas Forster of Etherston Esqe had a daughter baptzd Dorothy, Mr. Ralph Forster of Halton, Mrs. Mary Forster, his Lady's sister, her aunt Mrs. Grey of Durham, and Mrs. Magdalen Grey's daughter of Howick were the Gossip's. Feb. 3, 1686, Thomas Forster of Etherston, Esquire, had a son born, John, bap. fifth of July, 1688, Mr. John Forster, Mr. Ferdinando Forster, his lady's brothers were Godfathers, and Madam Margaret of Durham, Godmother."

FARNE ISLANDS.

These islands are situated to the southwest of Bamburgh, and at a distance of two miles from the latter place, while from Monkshouse, which is the nearest point from the mainland, the distance is about one and a half miles. It is estimated that the number of islands vary from fifteen to twenty-five; this, in a measure being due to the flow and ebb of the tide. It is remarkable the effect that this evolution has upon these tiny spaces of land. At full tide several of them are covered with water, but when the tide begins to recede they are again united, and form one distinct island. But the transformation is perhaps more apparent at full tide, for then the several islands are reduced to three or four. There are two groups of islets, separated from each other by the Ox Scar Road, which is one mile in breadth, and from five to eight fathoms deep, affording facilities to vessels of almost any size to pass, but not without danger. Several of the names associated with the island are of ancient origin, and may be traced back to Saxon times. Amongst these are Farne, Wedum, Staple, Brownsman, South Wamses, North Wamses, Harcar Scarcar, Crumstone, Longstone, Megstone, Noxes, Nivestone, Clive Car, Swedman, Outcarres, Nameless Rock, Roddam, and Green, Northern Hares, etc.

Farne is derived from the German word "Ferhern," signifying, as Raine says, to "rest from labor, and thus applicable to the early recluses, who repose from the labors and struggles of the world."

Farne is very frequently applied to the whole of the islands, and probably this is the most correct way of designating them, as in Saxon times they were only known as Farneland. In several charters and documents the inner island is termed the "House Island." In the twelfth century it was styled the "Stapol-i-land," and in more recent times it occurs as "Stapleland" and "Staple.'

There can be little doubt that the inner island owes much of its greatness to St. Cuthbert, although previous to this time it had been the resort of St. Aidan. During the time that St. Cuthbert was connected with Lindisfarne he often visited Farne, and his example in after years was followed by Ethelwold, who at one time was a monk at Ripon. He came to Farne in 687, and continued there to his death in 699. After Ethelwold came Felgeld, Elwin, Bartholomew and Thomas ex-Prior of Durham.

The greater portion of Bamburgh Estate, including the Castle, has been purchased by Lord Armstrong, C. B., of Cragside, Rothbury, from the trustees of Lord Crewe.

It was in the early part of the year 1894 that the public first learned that this historic domain was likely to change hands. But sudden as the announcement was, public anxiety was relieved when the name of the popular purchaser became known. At the Audit dinner held in connection with the Court Leets of the Manor of Bamburgh and Bamburgh Castle on April 24, 1894, at which several of the trustees were present, the following letter was read by the chairman, the Rev. Dixon Brown, from which may be gathered to a large extent, the particular use that his lordship was intending to make of the Castle: