WHAT STORMY SCENES HAVE BEEN ENACTED UNDER THE WALLS OF THESE RUINS AT GONDAR!

Erected in the middle of the sixteenth century by the Portuguese, who came to help the Christian Ethiopians in their fight against the Mohammedans, this wonderful example of medieval European architecture seems to have had no influence upon the architecture of the native, as exemplified in the grass huts in the left foreground. As one wanders about the ruins of this Old-World city, with its towers, drawbridges, and dungeons, one can conjure in his imagination the mailed knight upon his dashing charger, the fair lady, and the cowled monk. When the Portuguese were expelled the Ethiopians seem to have made no use of the buildings, which are now in a state of decay.

PAINTING THE PORTRAIT OF A YOUNG CHIEF OF THE LAKE TSANA REGION

Ethiopian artists do only very crude work and they were quick to appreciate the superiority of the skill of Mr. Fuertes, the artist of the expedition (see text, page 127).

NEARLY A QUARTER OF ETHIOPIA'S MALE POPULATION SERVES THE COPTIC CHURCH

No examination and only slight formality is necessary to be ordained a priest or deacon in the land where Sheba once ruled, but a cash contribution is an essential requisite. Despite the lack of preparation for office, the holy men wield a mighty influence, for they are the interpreters of the ancient law that governs the land. Note the ceremonial drum and beautiful oriental rugs in the foreground.

After a shum had visited our camp it was usual for him to send us a gift of food, the amount depending upon his wealth and importance. Sometimes it was only a chicken or a few pancakes of native bread, a jug of milk, or half a dozen eggs. It was not until we reached the province of Sidamo and camped in the precincts of its eccentric and powerful ruler, Dejazmatch Balcha,* that we received really

lavish attention. Here, immediately after our tents were set, a long line of slaves marched gravely up, bearing baskets of bread, jars of hot pepper sauce, gallons of tej, or honey beer, chickens and eggs by the dozen, hay and barley for our mules, bundles of firewood for our camp, and live stock on the hoof-a couple of sheep and, finally, a big fat ox.

Such large gifts were embarrassing, for we could not offer money in return and our stock of gifts was not large. Balcha at least pretended that he wished no return, and, as circumstances fell, he got none; for, although we had set aside a small rifle

All places of worship are much alike throughout the Empire; they are usually built upon high hills, surrounded by gigantic cedars and many-pronged euphorbias. When a traveler is crossing one of the wide, treeless plateaus and sights a large clump of trees, he may be sure he is nearing a church. The cool shade, with a medley of bird music coming from the depths of the surrounding verdant vegetation, is a great contrast to the heat of the plateau. The churches are large, circular, thatch-roofed buildings, but are of solid construction, with immense beams for the framework. There is a small square room in the center, a sort of "holy of holies," in which the "ark of the covenant" and sacred objects are kept. Only the priests have access to this room. A broad, gallerylike room encircles the holy place, where the congregation mills about and prays. The walls are decorated with crude drawings of saints, devils, and dragons. Christian people are drawn full-faced, while devils and evil persons are shown in profile only.

for presentation to him, a change in our route made its delivery impracticable.

The practice of supplying food to armies on the march or to important travelers, either native or foreign, is called dergo and is of long standing. Since it is carried out as a sort of enforced round robin, it is in reality a tax upon the people.

BAMBOOS, BANANAS, AND COFFEE

Balcha ruled his province with a firm hand. We found many evidences of his efficiency.

Over much of the province there is a heavy growth of bamboo, which not only affects the natural appearance of the region, but marks the works of man. It serves for the construction of larger and better huts than were seen elsewhere, and

the practice of building stockades and inclosures is widely followed. Easily constructed but very practical bridges-soft, yielding affairs, entirely of bamboo, often precarious looking, but in reality very tough and strong-were found over all the small streams.

The general cultivation of a banana plant, the starchy root of which is used. as food, also serves to give Sidamo an outward aspect very different from the other provinces we visited. It was here. also, that we entered the coffee region and began to meet trains of mules and donkeys loaded with bags of the beans bound for Addis Ababa and for export to the world.

Coffee is native to this part of Ethiopia, which includes the province of Kafa, somewhat to the westward (see map, page

A STOREHOUSE OF KNOWLEDGE IN NORTHERN ETHIOPIA

This primitive structure was in charge of priests and was found to be filled almost to overflowing with old illuminated manuscripts in the Geez language. The volumes were roughly bound with boards and encased with sheepskin.