Page images
PDF
EPUB
[ocr errors]

they are profoundly ignorant of distant regions-regions not in immediate contact with their own. Hence Gibbon has justly characterized the Chinese annals by two remarkable properties, domestic accuracy and foreign ignorance; and, from the poverty of our stock, readers cannot expect that we can say either very much, or much to the purpose, on Soongaria. We have given them fair warning, and it is not our fault if they be disappointed. We can only say, in the general, that Soongaria is a basin or concave plateau, bounded on the N. by the Kirguisian mountains and the Little Altai, which separate it from Western Siberia; on the S. by the Alak Tagh or Alak Oola, which, in the Kirguisian dialect of the Turkish language, signifies the speckled mountain,' and which joins at its eastern extremity, the great Bogdo; on the E. by the Bogdo Alin, asserted by the Mongols and Eluths to be the highest summit of Central Asia; and on the W. by the northern continuation of the Beloor Tagh, which separates it from the country possessed by the great Kirguisian horde. Respecting its longitudinal extent, it is impossible to state it accurately for want of observations of longitude; and the same may be said of its breadth. We only know that it is a very lofty and extensive region, reaching perhaps from the 75th to the 100th deg. of E. long., or 25 deg.; or about 1200 British miles in the lat. of 45°, and from 43° N. to 52° in its greatest breadth, or 620 British miles; but the breadth and length are far from being regular; but the superficies of the whole may be about 700,000 British square miles.

Name.] The name Soongaria, applied to this region, is Mongolian, signifying the country to the left,' in opposition to Tibet, which they denominate Baronthala, or Barohn-djao, the country to the right' or to the S. Hence the name of Songaree, applied to that branch of the Eluths who possess this region, is taken from the country so called by the Mongols, or, in other words, the region does not derive its name from them, but they from it. Strahlenberg tells us, that the Kalmuks, properly called Eluths, call themselves Avirat and Virat, and Derben Virat or Oiratthat is, the four Avirat tribes, which are Torga-oth, Koshi-oth, Kay-oht, Dsongar, and Dor-both, which two last make but one tribe. Hence he also remarks, that the Mongols call the four above-mentioned tribes not only Avir-at, but also Viloth and Avil-oth; and in Tibetian they are called Oilodh; hence the modern name Eluths or Aluths. These Eluths are probably descendants of the Avars of Menander, the Aviri of Iornandes, the Ogorits of Simokatta, and are the same with the Avi-rat of De Herbelot. It is probable the Ogorits were the Oigoors so famous in Mongolian story. Abulghazi, in his romance called a history, classes the Kalmucks or Virats among the Tartar tribes, and the Oigoors amongst the Mongol tribes. Now, the Kalmucks are evidently a branch of the great Mongol nation, as well as the Oigoors, and we cannot help thinking these latter to be a branch of the same great family, and not at all of the Turkish race. But it is impossible to arrive at certainty respecting the origin and subdivision of the pastoral tribes of Central Asia, as they have neither literature nor history to aid us in the search

Climate.] There can be no doubt that this region, though in the same latitude of France, is much colder from its high elevation and the various ranges of lofty mountains which rise on the base of its plateau. The elevated region called Kankaragay by D'Anville, in which the Irtish has its source, must have a vigorous climate, as Mount Bogdo and the other ranges in its vicinity are covered with perennial snow. The Chahan Tala,

or white plain, to the W. of the Sanghin Talghin lake, or Windy sea, must be very elevated, and is, perhaps, one of the highest in the northern part of Central Asia; but we must demur to Malte Brun's opinion, that it is one of the most elevated in the old world, after what we now know of the prodigious elevation of some of the Tibetian uplands. We are rather of opinion that, after passing the Mooz Tagler, or northern boundary of Western Tibet, the uplands begin to decline in elevation; the plateau of the Lesser Bukharia being lower than that of Tibet, and higher than that of Soongaria, which, in its turn, overlooks the terrace which separates the Great Altai from the Lesser Altai; so that, from the Mooz Tagler and the Kwanglung, there is a succession of sloping plateaus northward, each lower than the other, till we reach the southern confines of Western Siberia. What we say on this point is, however, mere conjecture, as we have no facts on which to ground our opinion; and, if the plateau in the vicinity of the source of the Korghon, and bounding Soongaria on the N., be 7,000 feet of elevation, according to Ledebuhr, who explored the terrace of the little Altai to the very borders of this region, Soongaria must be a very lofty region. But Chinese jealousy prevents all discovery in Central Asia.

Mountains.] This region is traversed in various directions by many mountain ranges, of which the names only are known. The principal range, out of all question, is the great Altai Alin, or 'Golden mountain,' called by the Russians the Great Bogdo, and is as it were in the very centre of Asia at almost an equal distance from the Caspian, the Icy, the Chinese, and the Indian seas, and the grand culminating point whence all the rivers of Central Asia flow to different airths except the S. Its direction seems to be from N.W. to S.E., and has various names in different parts of its course, from the various nomadic tribes which at different periods roamed in its vicinity, as Ek or Ak, Tak, the White mountains from its snowy summits; Kin, or the Golden mountain, from the Chinese, which is nearly a translation of the Toorkish and Mongolian epithets, Altin and Altai. By the Jesuit missionaries, in their map of Soongaria, this range is called Hangay Alin; and by others Khanggai; and, in the journal of general Kokan, it is called Han-hai; and, by Sou-houng-kean-lou, Hang-hai; but none of these is the proper name of the range according to Remusat, who observes that Han-hai is one of the names which the moderns give to the Cobi, or sandy desert. But he further remarks, that Hanhai was anciently the Chinese name of a lake in Tartary (Soongaria), very probably one of those which abound in the mountains of Altai; and it was for that reason that, in the 7th century, when Taytsong, after the Chinese manner divided the Whey-he country into foos and choos, he gave the title of Han-hai to that region where dwelt the tribe properly called Whey-he, and near the mountain celebrated as the place where Temujin defeated the khan of the Naimans, and called Hang-hai, which seems to be no other than a Mongol corruption of the Chinese name, Han-hai, originally bestowed on the region of the Whey-he, but now given exclusively to the Altai. When we consider the Selingha and Orchon, especially the latter, have full 400 B. miles, in direct distance from their sources, in the Altai, to run, before the confluent stream enters Siberia at Kiakhta, and that Kiakhta itself is 2,560 feet above the level of the sea, we may form some idea of the elevation of the Altai. From this range a great many branches are sent off in various directions under as various names. The upper course of the Irtish is flanked on both sides, before it arrives at the Saissan lake, by the Bogdo on the right, and the Chamar Daban on the left or S., which runs

E. and joins the Ui Daban. To the S. of the Chamar Daban is a high level, watered by the Bortal river, which runs E. and is lost in a lake Another range separates this upland from that watered by the Ili, which, in its turn, is separated from the Lesser Bukharia by the Alak chain. Another range, called the Malhan Atin, separates the basin of the lake Kirkir from that of the Upsa lake.

Lakes.] In respect of the number of lakes, the plateau of Soongaria bears a strong resemblance to that of Tibet. This region seems to be composed of a great number of concavities of greater or less dimensions, either surrounded by mountain-groups or bordered by mountain-chains, in which most of the rivers of this region are lost. Of these-if we can trust the Jesuit's map, made solely from itineraries or native report—the basin of the lake of Kirkir, in the centre of Soongaria, is the largest. This basin is watered by a large stream descending S.W. from the Malhan Alin, and then running N.W. to that lake into which it enters, after a semicircular course of 300 B. miles. So semicircular is its course as to represent a bow, of which the space between the lake and the source of the river represents the string. To the S.W. of this is the Ekearal lake, which is fed by two streams descending N. from the Hopto, and communicating with that of Kirkir by means of a large stream which it sends N.E. to it.-N.W. of the Kirkir lake is that of Upsa, into which the Teiz Pira descends from the N.E.-In the eastern extremity of Soongaria, and in the very heart of the Altai, is the large lake of Sanghin Talghin, surrounded with lofty mountains; and a little to the S.E. is Uljeyai Chahan Omo, the source of the Shilotoo, the chief branch of the Selingha.-On the S. side of Soongaria are the lakes of Kisalbas and the Chahan Omo. It is probable that the Chaban lake at the source of the Shilotoo, N.W. of Kara-korom was the Cianga lake of Marco Polo, where the grand khan had a summer-palace. It abounded with swans, pheasants, cranes, partridges, and quails; but as it was too cold in winter, it could only be visited in summer. In the western extremity of Soongaria is the Balkhash, or Palkasi Noor, a large basin of water, said to be 15 days' journey in circumference. It is more than two and a half degrees in length, by a degree in breadth. But as a proof of modern ignorance, no two maps agree in the longitude of this inland fluid expanse: some placing its eastern extremity, in 77° and others in 72o E. long. Rubruquis and Plano Carpine passed by this lake in their way to Karakorom, and say that so violent gusts of wind blow from the surrounding country as to blow travellers into the lake. The mountains to the W. of this lake form the western limit of Soongaria.-E. of this lake is a range of mountains which separate it from a series of lakes running eastward— the Alaktookol and the Kinre, into the latter of which descends the river Imil from the E., through a gorge of the mountains which shut up this concavity on the E.-Another large lake is that of Soissan, called also Honhotoo Noor, said to be 90 miles long from E. to W., and 40 from N. to S., in 47° 30′ N. lat. and 84° E. long. at its eastern extremity.-N.E. of this lake is that of Allin Kol or Noor, or the Golden lake,' called by the Russians Teletskoy Osero, or the Lake of the Telessi,' a Kalmuk tribe which inhabits the vicinity. It lies in very elevated ground, and is surrounded with mountains; its bottom is rocky, the sides steep, and it is itself very deep. The northern part is sometimes so hard frozen as to be passable on foot, but the S. part never freezes. The water in this lake, as well as that in the rivers which run through the adjacent parts-contrary to what happens to other lakes and rivers-rises only in the middle of summer,

when the great heats have melted the snows on the mountains which re. mained undesolved in spring. The N. end of this lake is fixed in 52°, and E. long. 83o 30', according to some maps, for they are by no means agreed. By some this lake is placed out of Soongaria and within the Russian limits. We adhere to the Petersburg academy's map, which places it in Soongaria. Strahlenberg identifies, in his map, this lake with that of Kirkir above mentioned, and the Balkash lake with the Tshui lake of his map.

[ocr errors]

6

Rivers.] Compared with other regions of Central Asia, Soongaria seems to be well-supplied with rivers, as, independent of those which are absorbed in lakes, the three largest rivers of Western Siberia originate in this region, and water no small portion of surface: namely, the Irtish, the Oby, and the Jenisea. It is here as with the mountains and lakes, we know little more of the Soongarian streams than their names; for, since the days of Carpini and Ruysbroeck, no European has traversed the country, and Russian knowledge is still confined to the N. of the Altai. The Irtish, near its source, is composed of two small streams, called the Char Irtish and Chor Irlish, or the Black' and the Red Irtish,' which originate at the foot of the Great Bogdo, in 93° E. long. of Greenwich, and 46° N. lat. These two small lakes are said to be 30 miles asunder. After a long descent of more than 400 B. miles, alongst a very elevated plateau, in a W.N.W. direction, it enters the Saissang lake, and issuing thence it turns northward, and enters Siberia opposite the fort of Bukhtarma, the most advanced Russian station towards the S. Its course through Soongaria is upwards of 550 B. miles in a direct line. To the N.E. of the Upper Irtish is the source of the Oby, in 48° N. lat. and 96° E. long., at the foot of the Great Bogdo, where it is called the Shabekan. Under that name, it runs N.W. to the Altin Noor, or 'Golden lake;' issuing thence, under the name of the By, it enters Siberia in 52° N. lat. and 87° 10′ according to Pinkerton, and 88° 44′ according to the map of the Russian academy, after having also performed a course of 550 miles through Soongaria. It is not till after its junction with the Khatoonya that it is called the Oby. The Jenisea is composed of two small streams, the Bei Kem and the Oola Kem, the latter of which is separated from the upper course and source of the Shabekan by a range of mountains on the S. Both these branches originate in the N.E. angle of Soongaria, from the western base of the Great Bogdo, which separates them from the sources of the Selingha. After running W. for a small space, the two streams unite under the name of the Kem, in 51° 30' N. and 95° E. long. Its true name is the Kem, and not the Jenisea or Enisea, which is the Tongoosian appellation. It is called, throughout the whole of its course, the Kem, by Mongols, Turks, and Chinese. As its whole course through Soongaria is in a mountainous and rocky tract, it is not navigable; and on account of its cataracts and stony bottom, it produces no fish. There are not less than 12 cataracts between its confluence with the Kemtschyug, and its junction with the Abakan. The next and last large river of consequence is entirely a Soongarian stream, and is called the Ili or Eli. This river is composed of two main branches, the Tekis and the Ili, both which rise in the Alak Tagh, in 83° E. long., according to the Jesuits' map, and in 44° N. lat., near the pass of Khonghis, and is, on that account, called also the Khonghis river. This stream is made first to run 150 miles N.W., and then 150 miles N., till it falls into the Balkhash lake.-The Tekis rises considerably to the W. of the Ili, and having run 70 miles N.E. enters the latter by several mouths. The mouth of the Ili is fixed by that map in 48° N.

Cities, &c.] Having finished our geographical remarks on Soongaria, we must confess that we can give no other account of its soil and produce than that it is a pastoral country. As to cities, there are none that are marked on the map, but Munas Hotun, and of it we know nothing. We, indeed, read of several cities having once existed in the days of the Oigoors and Turks, as Imil, Almatoo, Almalig, and Bishbalig, all Turkish names: these cities lay in the southern part of Soongaria, on the confines of the Little Bukharia, but they are said to be now in ruins.

[ocr errors]

Inhabitants.] Who were the original inhabitants of this region, none can tell; but it is plain from history that it has been inhabited by different races of wandering hordes at different periods, and perhaps at the same time. Abulghazi Khan makes it the original residence of Turk, the son of Japhet, the common ancestor of all the Scythian and Tartar tribes of Asia, and of that Mythic hero, Oguz Khan. According to the Chinese accounts, the Oigoors seem to have been the earliest known inhabitants, for they possessed at a very early period all the tract between the lake of Lop and the river Ili. We know, also, that the Oigoors were settled westward as far as the Irtish, but whether these were a Toorkish or Mongol race, or one different from both, is not at present determined. The Kirgees also dwelt on the banks of the Jenisea before the time of Jenghis Khagan, and the Virats or Eluths, the ancestors of the present race, inhabited the region of the Sekir Muran, or Eight rivers,' that fall into the Jenisea from the E.; although they no longer dwell on the Jenisea, but to the W. of the Beloor and the Irtish. The migrations of the pastoral nations of Asia have been so frequent, according as caprice dictated, ambition impelled, or necessity compelled, that it is not possible to unravel the web of Tartar history and geography, so that we must be content to know who are the present inhabitants of Soongaria and their present political state. The first time we hear of the Eluths, as a distinct tribe of the great Mongolian family, is about the commencement of the reign of Yong-loo, successor of Hong-voo, the founder of the Ming dynasty, when Ma-ha-mou, khan of the Wa-la, or Oilots, and A-lou-tai, prince. of the Mongols, received each a Chinese title from the emperor Yongloo. That of the former was Chun-ning-Wang,' the obedient and peaceful king,'-that of the latter Honing-wang, the pacific and tranquil king-so that at that period the Mongols and Eluths were viewed as distinct hordes, whose princes condescended to receive the title of wangs, which indicates the fallen fortunes of the successors of Jenghis Khan, and that the khan of the Eluth branch was now independent of the Mongol khans of Kara-korom. We hear no more of them till the middle of the 16th century, when all the various branches of the Eluths were united under one khan who reigned in Soongaria, and were continually at war with the Usbecs, called by them Hassak Puruks, who in their turn gave them the nick-name of Kalmuks. Ablay, a brother of the Eluth khan who then reigned, raised a rebellion against him, but was defeated and obliged to retire towards Siberia. Two places on the frontier of Soongaria, towards Siberia, and marked on the maps of Strahlenberg and D'Anville, under the names of Ablaket and Sempalat, or the Seven palaces,' were perhaps the abode of this Ablay Khan, at least a number of ruins have been discovered at these places and the vicinity; and at that time the power of the Eluths extended as far N. as 55° N. lat. The son-in-law of this khan, named Kaldan Tsereng, and Kaldan Pojuku, was a powerful and ambitious prince, and disputed the khanship with his father-in-law, the Kontaysha, or grand prince of the

[ocr errors]
[ocr errors]
« PreviousContinue »