O

sectional view with satisfactory clearness, as the threads are so very | and carried off some of its population (cp. 1 Chron. v. 26). rank, but fig. 3 gives some idea of the structure of the fabric. This Pekah's resistance to Assyria led to a conspiracy in which view shows ninety-nine threads and one complete round of weft; this round is, of course, equal to two picks or shots-one pick for he lost his life, and Hoshea the son of Elah became king the top part of the cloth and one for the bottom part. A com- (2 Kings xv. 27-30). The Assyrian king held him as his vassal parison of this figure with fig. 2 will, (and indeed claims to have set him on the throne), and exacted perhaps, make the description clearer. from him a yearly tribute. Meanwhile, Damascus was besieged The weft in fig. 3 is thinner than the warp, but, in practice, it is always (733-732 B.C.), Rasun was slain and the inhabitants deported much thicker, and may consist of (2 Kings xvi. 9; LXX. omits "to Kir," but see Amos i. 5). from two to seventy threads twisted The impending fate of Damascus is illustrated by Isaiah (vii. 16, together. Hose-pipes are also woven with the viii. 4, xvii. 1-11), who also gives a vivid description of the three-leaf twill on both sides, and impression left by the Assyrian army (v. 26-30). After the Occasionally with the four-leaf twill. death of Tiglath-Pileser, Israel regained confidence (Isa. ix. 8-x. 4) These pipes, woven with the twill and took steps to recover its independence. Its policy vacillated weaves, are usually lined with a pure -"like a silly dove " (Hos. vii. 11), and at length negotiations rubber tube which is fixed to the inside of the cloth by another layer were opened with Mizraim. The annual payment of tribute FIG. 3.-Section through of rubber after the cloth leaves the ceased and Shalmaneser IV. (who began to reign in 727 B.C.) loom. Such pipes have usually, but at once laid siege to Samaria, which fell at the end of three years the Warp. not invariably, a smoother inner surface than those which are unlined, hence, when they are used, less (722-721 B.C.). The achievement is claimed by his successor friction is presented to the flow of water, and there is less ten- Sargon. Hoshea was killed, the land was again partly depopudency for the pipe to leak. They are, therefore, suitable for lated and a governor appointed (2 Kings xviii. 9-12; cp. xvii. hotels, public buildings and similar places where their temporary I sqq.). For other allusions to this period see HOSEA, ISAIAH. use will not result in undue damage to articles of furniture, carpets 2 Kings xvii. 3 and 5 imply two attacks by Shalmaneser: in the and general decoration. first of which Hoshea was imprisoned and perhaps blinded (Cheyne, emending," shut him up " in v. 4), although in v. 6 he is still reigning Kings, p. 328 seq.; Skinner, Kings, p. 372 seq. The chronological see on this Winckler, Keilinschr. u. Alte Test. p. 268; Burney, xvii. 1. The usual identification of So (or Seve), king of Mizraim, notes, moreover, are extremely confused; contrast xv. 30 with with Shabaka of Egypt is difficult, partly on chronological grounds and partly because the Ethiopian dominion in Egypt appears to be (which Petrie, History of Egypt, pp. 277, 281 sqq. does not remove), still weak and divided. The Assyrian records name a certain Sibi as officer, and also Piru (Pharaoh!) as king of Musri, and it is doubtful whether Hoshea's ally was a petty prince of Egypt or of a N. Arabian district (see MIZRAIM). If the latter, Hoshea's policy becomes more intelligible; see Whitehouse, Isaiah, p. 17 seq.; and the introduction of colonists, see Winckler's objections, JEWS: History; PHILISTINES. On the depopulation of Samaria Alttest. Untersuch. pp. 95-107, with Burney's criticisms, Kings, p. 334 seq. (S. A. C.)

The greatest care must be observed in the weaving of these fabrics, the slightest flaw in the structure rendering the article practically useless. After the cloth has been woven, it is carefully examined, and then steeped in a chemical solution which acts as an antiseptic. The cloth is thus effectively preserved from mildew, and is, in addition, made more pliable. Finally the hose-pipe is dried artificially, and then fitted with the necessary couplings and nozzles. For a more detailed description of tircular weaving see Woodhouse and Milne, Textile Design: Pure and Applied. (T. Wo.) HOSHANGABAD, a town and district of British India, in the Nerbudda division of the Central Provinces. The town stands on the left bank of the Nerbudda, 1009 ft. above the sea, and has a railway station. Pop. (1901), 14,940. It is supposed to have been founded by Hoshang Shah, the second of the Ghori kings of Malwa, in the 15th century; but it remained an insignificant place till the Bhopal conquest about 1720, when a massive stone fort was constructed, with its base on the river, commanding the Bhopal road. It sustained several sieges during the 18th century, and passed alternately into the hands of the Bhopal and Nagpur rulers. Since 1818 it has been the residence of the chief British officials in charge of the district. It has a government high school, and agricultural school and a brassworking industry.

HOSHIARPUR, a town of British India, in the Jullundur division of the Punjab, Pop. (1901), 17,549. It was founded, according to tradition, about the early part of the 14th century. In 1809 it was occupied by Ranjit Singh. The maharaja and his successors maintained a considerable cantonment 1 m. S.E. of the town, and the British government kept it up for several years after the annexation of the Punjab in 1849. There are manufactures of cotton goods, inlaid woodwork, lacquered ware, shoes and copper vessels.

The DISTRICT OF HOSHIARPUR comprises an area of 2244 sq. m.; pop. (1901) 989,782, showing a decrease of 2% in the decade, compared with an increase of 12% during the previous decade. It falls into two nearly equal portions of hill and plain country. Its eastern face consists of the westward slope of the Solar Singhi Hills; parallel with that ridge, a line of lower heights belonging to the Siwalik range traverses the district from south to north, while between the two chains stretches a valley of uneven width, known as the Jaswan Dun. Its upper portion is crossed by the Sohan torrent, while the Sutlej sweeps into its lower end through a break in the hills, and flows in a southerly direction till it turns the flank of the central range, and debouches westwards upon the plains. This western plain consists of alluvial formation, with a general

The DISTRICT OF HOSHANGABAD has an area of 3676 sq. m. Pop. (1901), 449,165, showing a decrease of 10% in the decade, due to famine. It may be described as a valley of varying breadth, extending for 150 m. between the Nerbudda river and the Satpura mountains. The soil consists chiefly of black basaltic alluvium, often more than 20 ft. deep; but along the banks of the Nerbudda the fertility of the land compensates for the tameness of the scenery. Towards the west, low stony hills and broken ridges cut up the level ground, while the Vindhyas and the Satpuras throw out jutting spurs and ranges. In this wilder country considerable regions are covered with jungle. On the south the lofty range which shuts in the valley is remarkable in mountain scenery, surpassing in its picturesque irregularity the Vindhyan chain in the north. Many streams take their rise amid its precipices, then, winding through deep glens, flow across the plain between sandy banks covered with low jungle till they swell the waters of the Nerbudda. None is of any impor-westerly slope owing to the deposit of silt from the mountain tance except the Tawa, which is interesting to the geologist on account of the many minerals to be found along its course. The boundary rivers, the Nerbudda and Tapti, are the only considerable waters in Hoshangabad. The principal crops are wheat, millets and oil-seeds. The district is traversed throughout its length by the Great Indian Peninsula railway.

HOSHEA (Heb. for "deliverance "), the last king of Israel, in the Bible. The attempt of his predecessor Pekah to take Jerusalem with the help of his ally Rașun (Rezin) of Damascus was frustrated by the intervention of Tiglath-Pileser IV. (see АHAZ), who attacked Gilead, Galilee and the north frontier,

torrents in the sub-montane tract. The Beas has a fringe of lowland, open to moderate but not excessive inundations, and considered very fertile. A considerable area is covered by government woodlands, under the care of the forect department. Rice is largely grown, in the marshy flats along the banks of the Beas. Several religious fairs are held, at Anandpur, Mukerian and Chintpurni, all of which attract an enormous concourse of people. The district, owing to its proximity to the hills, possesses a comparatively cool and humid climate. Cotton fabrics are manufactured, and sugar, rice and other grains, tobacco and indigo are among the exports.

The country around Hoshiarpur formed part of the old Hindu | frame-work knitting. For this reason it is largely used in the shawl, kingdom of Katoch in Jullundur. The state was eventually glove and fancy hosiery industries. broken up, and the present district was divided between the rajas of Ditarpur and Jaswan. They retained undisturbed possession of their territories until 1759, when the rising Sikh chieftains commenced a series of encroachments upon the hill tracts. In 1815 the aggressive maharaja, Ranjit Singh, forced the ruler of Jaswan to resign his territories in exchange for an estate on feudal tenure; three years later the raja of Ditarpur met with similar treatment. By the close of the year 1818 the whole country from the Sutlej to the Beas had come under the government of Lahore, and after the first Sikh war in 1846 passed to the British government. The deposed rajas of Ditarpur and Jaswan received cash pensions from the new rulers, but expressed bitter disappointment at not being restored to their former sovereign position. Accordingly the outbreak of the second Sikh war, in 1848 found the disaffected chieftains ready for rebellion. They organized a revolt, but the two rajas and the other ringleaders were captured, and their estates confiscated.

HOSIERY, a term used to designate all manufactured textile fabrics which in their process of manufacture have been built on the principle of looping or loop structure. The origin of the term is obvious, being derived from "hose" or stocking, this being one of the earliest garments made by the process of knitting (q.v.). While it still forms one of the staples of the trade, it is only one of a very numerous and diversified range of applications of the entire industry. The elastic structure of knitting makes it very adaptable for all kinds of body or underwear. There is scarcely a single textile article manufactured but can be reproduced on the knitting or loop structure principle. The art of knitting is of very modern origin as compared with that of weaving. No certain allusion to the art occurs before the beginning of the 15th century. In an act of parliament of Henry VII. (1488) knitted woollen caps are mentioned. It is supposed that the art was first practised in Scotland, and thence carried into England, and that caps were made by knitting for some period before the more difficult feat of stocking-making was attempted. In an act of Edward VI. (1553) "knitte hose, knitte peticotes, knitte gloves and knitte sleeves." are enumerated, and the trade of hosiers, among others, included in an act dated 1563. Spanish silk stockings were worn on rare occasions by Henry VIII., and the same much-prized articles are also mentioned in connexion with the wardrobe of Edward VI. Knitting, or loop formation by mechanical means, is divided into two distinct principles-frame-work knitting and warp knitting. Both principles may be employed in the formation of a large variety of plain and fancy stitches or a combination of the two.

Frame-work Knitting in its simplest form consists of rows of loops supporting each other-built from one continuous thread of yarn and running from one side of the fabric to the other and back

Machinery. In hand knitting the implements employed (a few needles or wires) are very simple and inexpensive. In the man facturing industry the most complex and ingenious machinery is used. In 1589 the Rev. William Lee, a graduate of St John's College, Cambridge, while acting as curate (or vicar) of Calverton, Nottinghamshire, introduced his This machine was stocking-frame. the first mechanical means employed to produce a looped or knitted fabric. This frame or machine of Lee's was the origin of all the hosiery and lace machines at present in use. One of the most remarkable points about his invention was its completeability for the work ness and adaptfor which its inventor intended it. The main principles of Lee's frame are em

FIG. 3.-Hand Stocking Frame. bodied in most of the rotary or power frames of the present day. Fig. 3 shows a hand frame of the present day.

a

In hand knitting an indefinite number of loops are skewered a wire or pin, but, in Lee's frame, an individual booked or bea the breadth of the fabric. This needle consists of a shank wi needle is employed for the support and formation of each loop terminal spring-pointed hook (or beard), the point of which cas pressed at will into a groove or eye in the shank. For method by which the loops are formed on the needles of the frame see Sg. loops or work hanging round the needle shanks. The thread of This shows a few of Lee's hooked or bearded needles having the yarn which is to form the new row of loops is laid over the needle shanks and waved or looped between each pair of needles. This waving or looping ensures sufficient yarn being drawn and loops of uniform size being made, so that a regular and level fabric will be produced. The looping or waving is obtained by having than plates of shaped metal, called sinkers, which have a nose-shaped point and hang between the needles. When looping they have an individual movement downwards between the needles, and as they fall the noseshaped point carries the yarn down, thus forming the new loop (fig. 5). The size of the loop is regulated by the distance the sinker is allowed to fall. After the thread of yarn has been looped between the needle shanks by the sinkers, the loops are brought forward under the needle beards or hooks A presser bar is now brought down to close or press all the points of the needle beards into the eye in the shank. Thus all the hook ends all the needles are temporarily closed, with the newly formed loops under them. While in this position, the old loops hanging round the shank are brought forward and landed on to the top of the needle beard and off the needle altogether, being thus left hanging round. or supported by the loops newly formed. The needle beards are now released, and the loops drawn back along the shanks to be in position for next new course of loops. The foregoing is only an outline of how the loops are formed on the needles. It is not necessary berr to enter into a description of the complex mechanical movemes of Lee's stocking-frame. The first fabric made by Lee was of a

FIG. 4

A. The leads into which the needles (B) are

cast.

D. The old loops or work.

C. The new loops formed and brought under the beards.

FIG. 7.-Eight at once, 130 gauge, full-fashioned, seamless bosom, sloped shoulder underwear frame, Cotton's patents. (William Cotton, Ltd., Loughborough.)

the upper end being turned into a hook. Near the hook end
and attached to the stem by a pin is the spoon-shaped latch,
which closes over the hook as required. Machines fitted with latch-
needles have grooves in which the stem of the needle works. Cams,
which act on the
needle butts, give
the needles their
individual knit-
ting action in rota-
tion. This needle
is self-acting, in
that it is made to
draw its own loop,
sinkers being dis-
pensed with.
Fig. 9 shows the
looping action of

this needle. The needles when not knitting have a FIG. 8. Various Shapes of the Latch Needle. loop, round their shank, thus holding the latch open. When about to knit, they are raised individually and in rotation (by the cams acting on the needle butts) to receive

the new loop of yarn.

its severe canons concerning such points of discipline as the name appearing second in the list of those present), and upheld treatment of the lapsed and clerical marriages. In 313 he appears at the court of Constantine, being expressly mentioned by name in a constitution directed by the emperor to Caecilianus of Carthage in that year. In 323 he was the bearer and possibly the writer of Constantine's letter to Bishop Alexander of Alexandria and Arius his deacon, bidding them cease disturbing the peace of the church; and, on the failure of the negotiations in Egypt, it was doubtless with the active concurrence of Hosius that the council of Nicaea was convened in 325. He certainly took part in its proceedings, and was one of the large number of "confessors" present; that he presided is a very doubtful assertion, as also that he was the principal author of the Nicene Creed. Still he powerfully influenced the judgment of the emperor in favour of the orthodox party. After a period of quiet life in his own diocese, Hosius presided in 343 at the fruitless synod of Sardica, which showed itself so hostile to Arianism; and afterwards he spoke and wrote in favour of Athanasius in such a way as to bring upon himself a sentence of banishment to Sirmium (355). From his exile he wrote to Constantius II. his only extant composition, a letter not unjustly characterized by the great French historian Sebastian Tillemont as displaying gravity, dignity, gentleness, wisdom, generosity and in fact all the qualities of a great soul and a great bishop. Subjected to continual pressure the old man, who was near his hundredth year, was weak enough to sign the formula adopted by the second synod of Sirmium in 357, which involved communion with the Arians but not the condemnation of Athanasius. He was then permitted to return to his diocese, where he died in 359, `See S. Tillemont, Mémoires, vii. 300-321 (1700); Hefele, Conciliengeschichte, vol. i.; H. M. Gwatkin, Studies of Arianism Cambridge, 1882, 2nd ed., 1900); A. W. W. Dale, The Synod of Elvira (London, 1882); and article s.v. in Herzog-Hauck, Realencyklopädie (3rd ed., 1900), with bibliography. to

Down till almost the middle of the 19th century only a flat web could be knitted in the machines in use, and for the finishing of stockings, &c., it was necessary to seam up the selvedges of web shaped on the frame (fashioned work), or to cut and seam them from even web (cut work). The introduction of any device by which seamless garments could be fabricated was obviously a great desideratum, and it is a singular fact that a machine capable of doing this was patented in 1816 by Sir Marc I. Brunel. This frame was the origin of the French-German loop-wheel circular frame of the present day. Brunel's frame was greatly improved by Peter Claussen of Brussels and was shown at an exhibition in Nottingham in 1845. This frame had horizontal placed needles fixed on a rotating rim. A few years later Moses Mellor of Nottingham transformed this type of frame by altering the position of the needles to perpendicular. This is now known as the English loop-wheel circular frame. After the invention of the latch-needle there was a revolution in the hosiery machine-building industry, new types of machines being invented, fitted

work with latch-
needles. Among
others there was the
latch-needle circular
frame, invented by
Thomas Thompson,
which was the origin
of the English latch-
needle circular frame,
a frame largely used
for the production

of wide circular
fabric.

A circular knitting
machine of American
origin is the type of

FIG. 9.-Individual Action of the Latch machine on which is Needle. produced the seamless hosiery of to-day. Like the sewing machine it is largely used in the home as well as in the factory. From this machine all the circular automatic power machines for making plain and rib seamless hose and half hose have been developed. The "flat" or "lamb" type of machine, an American invention, was introduced by J. W. Lamb in 1863. This machine has two needle beds or rows of needles sloping at an angle of nearly 90°.

A great many varieties of this type of machine have been invented for the production of all kinds of plain and fancy hosiery. It is built in small sizes to be wrought by hand or in large power machines. A large variety of sewing, seaming and linking machines are employed in the hosiery industry for the purpose of putting together or joining all kinds of hosiery and knitted goods. These machines have almost entirely superseded the sewing or joining of the garments by hand. The principle centres in Great Britain of the hosiery industry are Leicester and Nottingham and the surrounding districts. It is also an industry of some extent in the south of Scotland. (T. B.*)

HOSIUS, or OSIUS (c. 257–359), bishop of Cordova, was born about A.D. 257, probably at Cordova, although from a passage in Zosimus it has sometimes been conjectured that he was believed by that writer to be a native of Egypt. Elected to the see of Cordova before the end of the 3rd century, he narrowly escaped martyrdom in the persecution of Maximian (303-305). In 305 or 306 he attended the council of Illiberis or Elvira (his

HOSIUS, STANISLAUS (1504-1579), Polish cardinal, was born in Cracow on the 5th of May 1504. He studied law at Padua and Bologna, and entering the church became in 1549 bishop of Kulm, in 1551 bishop of Ermland, and in 1561 cardinal. Hosius had Jesuit sympathics and actively opposed the Protestant reformation, going so far as to desire a repetition of the St Bartholomew massacre in Poland, Apart from its being the property of the Roman Church," he regarded the Bible as having no more worth than the fables of Aesop. Hosius was not distinguished as a theologian, though he drew up the Confessio fidei christiana catholica adopted by the synod of Piotrkow in 1557. He was, however, supreme as a diplomatist and administrator. Besides carrying through many difficult negotiations, he founded the lyceum of Braunsberg, which became the centre of the Roman Catholic mission among Protestants. He died at Capranica near Rome on the 5th of August 1579.

Life by A. Eichhorn (Mainz, 1854), 2 vols.
A collected edition of his works was published at Cologne in 1584.

HOSKINS, JOHN (d. 1664), English miniature painter, the uncle of Samuel Cooper, who received his artistic education in Hoskins's house. His finest miniatures are at Ham House, Montagu House, Windsor Castle, Amsterdam and in the Pierpont Morgan collection. Vertue stated that Hoskins had a son, and Redgrave added that the son painted a portrait of James II. in 1686 and was paid £10, 5s. for it, a statement for which there must have been some evidence, although it is not supported by any reference in the State Papers. Some contemporary inscriptions on the miniatures at Ham House record them as the work of "Old Hoskins," but the fact of the existence of a younger artist of the same name is settled by a miniature in the Pierpont Morgan collection, signed by Hoskins, and bearing an authentic engraved inscription on its contemporary frame to the effect that it represents the duke of Berwick at the age of twenty-nine in 1700. The elder Hoskins was buried on the 22nd of February 1664, in St Paul's, Covent Garden, and as there is no doubt of the authenticity of this miniature or of