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REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONER OF AGRICULTURE.

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Since my last report of the special appropriation of $20,000 "for investigations to test the practicability of preparing flax and hemp as a substitute for cotton," there has been expended $4,500 40, leaving a balance of $10,500 remaining in the United States treasury.

The increasing demand made upon the department for the agricultural report, which is yearly becoming more extended and urgent as the appreciation of its value and usefulness is widened and intensified, induces me to ask Congress for an additional number of copies. The limited number allowed for circulation by the department forbids a very liberal distribution among those engaged in agricultural pursuits, who especially desire and seek the information it contains; many of whom are dependent upon the department for their supply. A single copy to each of its correspondents would alone absorb nearly the entire annual allotment to the department.

There should also be retained a sufficient number of each volume for the future supply of foreign exchanges, libraries, and agricultural and kindred associations.

Respectfully submitted,

ISAAC NEWTON,
Commissioner of Agriculture.

His Excellency ANDREW JOHNSON, President.

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REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF GARDEN.

SIR: I have the honor to submit the following notes and remarks upon the
progress and practical operations of the garden:

At the risk of repetition, I would again allude to the limited area of the gar-
den. It is highly necessary that the department should possess complete
orchards of the various hardy fruits. At least one tree or plant of every
variety should be kept, thus forming a living museum, which would be of
great value for reference. As it is, only the small fruits can be accommodated,
and, to test all the new varieties even of these, it is found necessary to eradi-
cate those that proved to be comparatively worthless. This, although perhaps
no great loss, does not fully serve the purpose of a national garden, which
should preserve specimens of all, in order to assist in the identification of sorts,
and also exhibit the progress made in their improvement.

GRAPES.

Inquiry is frequently made as to the best mode of propagating the grape, the information sought, however, having reference more to the character of plant produced than to the mode of manipulation-whether the best plants are those produced from long cuttings, single eyes, or layers; and also to the relative merit of plants produced partially or altogether under glass, and those grown wholly in the open border. So far as the health of the plant is involved, as having an influence upon its future growth, there is no difference in any of the above-mentioned modes, provided it has ripened and thoroughly matured both wood and roots. Plants of the very best description have been produced from single eyes of young green shoots taken off in May, rooted, and kept in pots during summer. These have made growths from six to eight feet in length, thoroughly ripened to the tips of the shoots, and formed as fine plants as may be desired for permanent planting.

To produce plants from such soft and succulent cuttings, it is absolutely essential that they be placed under glass and in a warm bed, technically bottom heat, and as soon as roots are formed the young plants are potted and kept growing freely under glass-but not in a close atmosphere-a position they may occupy until growth is complete; or, they can be planted out in the open ground by the end of July. Unless with new or rare varieties there is

seldom

any necessity for this mode of propagation, which requires considerable skill and care; but it is proper to state that as good plants can be procured by this as can be by any other mode, and, in respect to being exempt from old wood, it is superior to any other mode of propagation by cuttings. It is a system of multiplying all kinds of plants more universally adopted than any other, and answers quite as well with the grape as with any other plant.

is by long cuttings in the open border. These should not be less than four
Where cuttings are plentiful, the most economical method of raising plants

Boil, rather light or sandy, insert the cuttings in rows, pressing them down so that the bud rests on the surface; the soil should be made firm around them, and if slightly covered with strawy manure (only a sprinkling-chaff will answer better if obtainable,) to prevent surface evaporation, a very large per

centage will form fine plants without any further care than that necessary to keep down weeds and cultivate the surface.

Ordinarily there is no better mode of propagating grapes than that known as by the single eye or bud. As indicated, these are made with one bud retained, and about one inch of wood below it. Plants from these have but very little old wood in their structure, and so approach as near as possible to a plant produced from seed, although, as far as this is concerned, the plant from a green wood cutting has decidedly the advantage. Single eye cuttings of old wood are generally placed under glass, and receive a slight bottom heat. This, however, is not indispensable, and they will do well on a green-house shelf. The great point in their management is to preserve sufficient moisture in the soil so as to prevent the sap in the cutting from exhaustion until the roots are formed. They may be planted out doors and succeed if caution is taken not to allow the surface to become dried; it is merely a question of evaporation. A slight bottom heat is useful to force the plant, but it should be applied very gently until indications of rooting appear. In climates where the growing season is comparatively short there is advantage gained in getting the plants well advanced before setting out.

When roots are sufficiently advanced, the plants are placed singly in small pots, and planted in the open border as soon as the weather is favorable. As evidence of the strength and vigor of plants procured in this way, it may be noted that specimens have been grown in one summer, from single eyes set in spring, that have produced several pounds of fruit the following season.

Wood intended for cuttings should be pruned off in November, cut in convenient lengths, and buried at once in the soil, covered at least nine inches. By doing so the sap is retained, and many failures in cuttings can be clearly traced to causes which will in this way be obviated.

Layers of the young wood is another legitimate mode of propagating vines, and from old established plants a few shoots can be laid down during the early part of summer, form good rooted plants before winter, and that without materially injuring the fruit crop.

As previously remarked, it matters but little to the future well-being of the plant as to which of the above modes have been employed in its production, provided it has properly matured its growth.

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There is one point in regard to roots which it may be well to mention. When the plants are grown in a deep, porous, rich soil, the roots ramify into numerous small fibres, which have been not inaptly described as horse-taillike bunches." Plants having such appendages as roots are not in good condition for removal, inasmuch as these hair-like fibres are destitute of woody matter, and soon decay on exposure to the atmosphere. The possession of such roots is a very convincing proof that the plant has not completed (or rather not matured) its growth, and its future progress will be feeble. Unfortunately there is too great a tendency to the production of such growths, since most of the native grapes are more or less checked with mildew during the growing season, an influence which also extends to the roots. The best plants are those with the greatest amount of hard brown ripened tops, furnished with moderately strong, and what may be termed stout, wiry roots, and although these, to a novice, are not so enticing in appearance, yet they are the best adapted to furnish an abundance of fresh and vigorous spongioles, and, in consequence, vigorous plants.

PLANTING.

When the young vine is planted in its permanent location it should be pruned down to two buds, and this without reference to the manner of its propagation. Even the strongest layers should be so treated. One cane is

sufficient to grow, but, to be prepared for possible accident, both buds should be allowed to start until the shoots are long enough to admit of tying to a stake, then the weakest may be removed or pinched back. During the summer the plant should be allowed to grow undisturbed, except tying up the shoots; the more foliage the more strength will the roots attain. The question is frequently asked, "At what age should a vine be allowed to bear?" The only answer that can be given is, simply, when it is strong enough; and it should be cut down closely at the annual winter pruning until it sends up a cane of sufficient strength to bear fruit, which it will do, in ordinary culture, the second summer from planting.

PECULIARITIES OF VARIETIES.

Of the Labrusca or Fox species, the most exempt from mildew are the Concord, Hartford Prolific, Ives's Seedling, Dracut Amber, and Northern Muscadine. All of the Cordifolia species are eminently hardy; mildew or rot rarely attacks them. The Clinton is a familiar example of this class, and the most reliable wine grapes will ultimately be produced from improved varieties of this section. The following is the average order of ripening of some of the earliest varieties: Adirondac, Hartford Prolific, Roger's Hybrid No. 3, Dracut Amber, Delaware, Concord, Logan, Creveling, Ives's Seedling, Roger's Hybrid No. 4. Canby's August, Allen's Hybrid, &c. It may be remarked that the same varieties do not always ripen in the same rotation even on the same grounds and location.

The best fox-grapes, or those having a strong musky flavor with great sweetness, are the Dracut Amber, Rachel, Northern Muscadine, and Perkins. These are all robust, and very hardy and productive; excellent for giving the genuine American flavor to wine, which will probably, in course of time, be regarded as a distinguishing characteristic of native wines. They are also good table grapes to those who admire this flavor, a taste for which exists to a larger extent than is generally supposed. Such strong wood-producing Varieties as Clinton, Taylor, Alvey, Franklin, etc., do not require to be so closely pruned in the fall as those of less robust habit. They should be allowed considerable extent of trellis or support, so that they can extend the yearly growths to lengths of twelve to sixteen feet, and pruned back but slightly; fruit will then be produced profusely; but, if closely cut in winter, a mass of wood growth only will be the result.

The To Kalon is particularly subject to rot, so much so that it is not a profitable kind to plant.

Of white grapes, the Cassidy and Anna are the most productive, Rebecca and Maxatawny best flavored. Allen's Hybrid and Clara are also good, but being seedlings from foreign varieties, are not always reliable. When they can be protected from mildew, satisfactory crops will be produced. Taylor is a poor bearer, unless on thin soils and with but little done to it in winter pruning. The Concord still maintains its supremacy (all things considered) as the best native grape for general cultivation; although subject (with all of its family) to rot, yet it always produces a fair crop, and being but little troubled with leaf mildew, the wood is well ripened, and consequently is least injured during winter. The Delaware is first-class, but not always reliable. The same may be noted of the Diana and Catawba, fruits of first quality when had in perfection. The Yeddo grape, from Japan, continues to prove unsatisfactory; very liable to mildew, and very late in maturing even when in health; fruit not of first quality when compared with the best native varieties.

Of the Roger's Hybrids there are some very promising varieties. No. 3 is decidedly a good early grape. No. 4 large and fine in bunch and berry, and of medium quality in flavor. No. 1 is productive, later in ripening, but a white

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