KNITTED GAUNTLET.

(See engraving, page 512.)

Materials.-Some single Berlin wool, of any shade that may be preferred; one-eighth of a yard of plush; one-eighth of a yard of silk for lining; one yard of ribbon.

THE season has now arrived for making these useful articles, which are so comfortably worn over a pair of kid gloves, when the weather is intensely cold. The portion of the gauntlet that covers the glove is knitted, and the gauntlet is made of plush, lined with silk and wadding, ornamented with a bow and ends of ribbon. Having only the glove to knit, a pair of these guantlets would be quickly executed. The glove is knitted backwards and forwards (not round) in the following manner : Cast on 62 stitches. 1st row. Slip 1, * make 1, purl 1, knit 1, repeat from *, kuit 1. 2d. Slip 1, * make 1, purl 1, knit 1, repeat from *, knit 1. It will thus be seen that the stitch that was purled in the preceding row will be knitted in the next, and so on. After having knitted 30 rows in this manner, the thumb must be com

menced. This is made by casting on 10 stitches at each end of the knitting, making altogether 82 stitches. Fifty rows are required to make the thumb; and in knitting the extra 10 stitches at each end they must be diminished every now and then by knitting together the 4th and 5th stitch at the beginning and end. This diminishing must be done gradually, and at the end of the 50 rows there should be on the needle the same number of stitches as was commenced with; 20 more rows have now to be knitted, and the mitten is finished. The thumb is neatly sewn up, leaving the small opening at the top seen in the illustration. Our model is further ornamented on the back of the hand with 3 stripes of embroidered silk. This is very easily accomplished by taking 2 ribs of the knitting and working over them in coarse herring-bone stitch. The depth of the plush cuff is 4 inches, the length round 14 inches. This cuff should be shaped a little towards the glove portion, to suit the size of the bottom of the knitting.

WORK according to the patterns on perforated card-board, with split zephyr of any bright color. The first letter is "K," half of which is worked

on one piece, and half on the other. After working each piece, join them back to back. Make two small cords and tassels of your

zephyr, and place one in the centre of each end. By turning these cords quickly in the fingers, the words "Kiss Me" will appear."

GENTLEMEN'S DRIVING GLOVES.

(See engravings, page 513.)

Materials.—Black or white worsted, and seven knitting needles, Nos. 13, 14, or 15, according to the size of the hand. (The seven needles are used only in making the fingers.)

CAST on each of these needles 16 stitches, and close them into a round; after which, do one and a half or two inches of ribbed knitting, alternately knitting two and purling the same number. Do one plain round, and begin the pattern. 1st. round. * knit 3, purl 1, * all round. 2d. Plain knitting. 3d. *knit 1, purl 1, knit 2; * all round. 4th. Plain knitting. By continuing to work these four rounds, as directed, the purled stitches will always come over each other, at the distance of every fourth round, every alternate stitch being quite plain throughout the glove. After eight rounds, begin to raise the thumb, thus: purl 1, knit 1, bring a thread through and make another, purl 1. Continue the round as the others, observing that these purled stitches are always to be purled, and the increase for the thumb made between them. Increase at first every third round, then every second, finally every round, until you have got to the separation of the thumb, when you should have fourteen on the thumb, within the two purled stitches. Put all but these fourteen on three needles, and leave them, so as to finish the thumb; divide the stitches on two needles, and cast four on a third; form into a round, and knit round and round (in the pattern) until sufficient is done. Then gradually close and fasten off. Take up the edge of the four stitches cast on, and add to the rest for the hand. Knit about one and a half inches in depth, from the thumb, then the fingers. The little finger has twelve, and four extra cast on to come between it and the third; knit round the needful length, and close. The third finger must have five stitches from the front, and the same number from the back of the hand, with four also that were cast on for the little finger, and five to be cast on between the back and front, next the second finger; this, of course, must be longer. The middle finger has seven stitches from the back of the hand, and six from the front, with the cast-on stitches between it and the third, and also five fresh ones, next the forefinger: this is the longest of all. The forefinger has the re

maining stitches, with those cast on between it and the middle finger; and when finished, it completes the glove. The ends are drawn in, and darned down on the other side. The pattern must be maintained throughout; and to make the gloves set well the stitches cast on at the separation of the thumb must ran up the front of the forefinger. Sew wash-leather on the thumb and forefinger of the right hand.

CROCHET PELERINE.

(See engraving, page 514.) Materials.-One-half a pound of white Berlin wool; one-quarter of a pound of blue ditto; two ounces of speckled wool.

We can recommend our subscribers to make themselves one of these useful pelerines, as they will find them a most convenient and comfortable addition to their wardrobe. They are extremely easy to make, and form a pleasant occupation for the long winter evenings. These little pelerines reach to the waist, and close at the throat, and are worn underneath a mantle out of doors; or they make an exceedingly comfortable wrap, on a cold winter's evening to put on in coming from a theatre or place of public amusement. Being arranged without sleeves, they are easily put on and taken off. Our model is made of blue, white, and speckled wool, arranged in stripes; and the manner in which these stripes are crocheted, whether broad or narrow, must, of course, be left to individual taste. It would be superfluous to give directions for working every row, as the stitches are all the same, and the shape of the pelerine is formed by increasing in every row down the centre of the back, and on each side of the front, as will be seen on referring to our illustration. Make a chain rather longer than the size of the neck (as it diminishes in the working.) 1st row. 5 chain, *2 treble, 1 chain, miss 1, repeat from * until the middle of the row is reached. this stitch make 4 treble instead of 2, with a chain between, and work to the end of the row. 2d. Turn, 3 chain, 2 long into space of previous We may here mention that all the treble stitches are worked into the spaces, and not into the chain of previous row. 1 chain, 3 treble, until the middle of the row is reached, when work a double quantity of treble stitches, then 1 chain, 3 treble, to the end of the row. 3d. 3 chain, 2 treble, into the space of preceding row, then 1 chain, 3 treble, to the end of the row, increasing as usual down the centre of the back. From the description of these 3 rows, it will at once be seen how the remainder

row.

Into

of the pelerine is worked, always bearing in mind to increase at the commencement and in the centre of every row. When the foundation of the pelerine is crocheted, a row should be worked all round, consisting of 1 chain and 3 treble; this finishes off the sides neatly and nicely. A small collar may be added, if liked (this is, however, not necessary), by crocheting into the foundation round the neck, and working 3 or 4 rows, in the same manner as the pelerine. This little collar is finished off round the edge with a row of double crochet worked into every stitch. The fringe which ornaments the bottom of the pelerine is easily made. It consists of lengths of partridge and blue wool, knotted alternately into every space and treble stitch of the bottom row. A piece of plaited wool, with a pair of tassels at each end, is run round the neck, with which the pelerine is fastened. The arrangement of color in our model is as follows: 10 rows of white, 1 row of blue, 1 row of speckled, 4 rows of blue, 1 row of speckled, 1 row of blue all round. Fringe, blue and speckled.

CARRIAGE BOOT.

Materials.-Three skeins each of black and scarlet double Berlin wool, and needle No. 9, Bell gauge.

COMMENCE with the black wool and make a chain of 50 stitches.

1st row.-Miss the first chain stitch, put the

needle into the next chain stitch, take up the wool on a needle and draw it through in a loop; * keep the 2 loops on the needle, put the needle into the next chain stitch and repeat from * until the 50 loops are raised.

Work 9 rows more the same, changing the colors at each end throughout the boot, so that all the loops are raised with black, and worked back with the scarlet. The work should be tight, so that this piece measures 11 inches in length. Work 5 rows more the same, but decreasing a stitch in the centre of each row. To decrease, two black loops should be taken on the needle and worked as one stitch.

16th row.-Decrease the first two loops, raise the rest, and take the last 2 loops together to decrease; work back.

17th.-Plain, but increasing a stitch in the centre. To increase, the needle should be inserted in the scarlet, between two black stitches, and the wool brought through in a loop as usual,

18th.-Decrease the first 2 stitches, raise the rest to the centre; then increase a loop as before, raise the rest, decreasing the last 2 loops; work back.

19th.-Plain, but increasing a stitch in the

centre.

20th.-As the 18th row.

21st.-As the 19th row.

22d. Decrease a stitch at the beginning and end of the row.

23d. All plain.

Repeat the last 2 rows until it is decreased to 24 stitches, which finishes the boot; and, it being made on a new plan, it is as well to state that the last row, when joined, forms the toe, the two slanting sides the front, and the first row the back of the boot.

To make up the boot, it will require a pair of cork soles bound with ribbon, and a half yard of scarlet silk or flannel. Cut the flannel the shape of the work, allowing half an inch for turnings.

Double the foundation row in half and sew the sides together, drawing about 6 stitches in the centre close, to form the heel; then sew up the toe.

To join the slanting sides which form the front, commence at the toe with the black wool, and work a row of single crochet, thus: keep the wool at the back, put the needle into a stitch of the right selvedge, and then into the left selvedge, bring the wool through them and also through the loop on the needle; repeat. Then round the top of the boot work 6 rows of plain crochet backwards and forwards very