JUST PUBLISHED. FOR HOLIDAY PRESENTS, THE BUTTERFLIES OF AMERICA, Parts 1 and 2, of 12 plates each, in a most elegant French case. No former attempt was ever made to transfer on paper the American butterflies, in all the original colors which Nature lavished upon them, and we are confident that, as a work of art, they will favorably compare with any of the best French or English productions. Pleasing and instructive for young and old, they cannot fail to give the highest enjoyment wherever presented. These, together with our Autumn Leaves, are just the thing for the PARLOR, TABLE, PHOTOGRAPH ALBUM, AND THE CHRISTMAS TREE. Price for one set, 12 cards, 50 cents, or 8 cents each. Sent by mail, post-paid, on receipt of price. Book, Picture, and News Dealers should send in their orders at once. Local and Travelling Agents wanted everywhere. We want every person, man, woman, or child, who may read this advertisement, to send for our Circular, containing the whole list of our many WAR PUBLICATIONS, etc. etc. Circulars will be sent free to any person who will send us their address. PHILADELPHIA AGENCY. No order attended to unless the cash accompanies it. All persons requiring answers by mail must send a post-office stamp; and for all articles that are to be sent by mail, stamps must be sent to pay return postage. Be particular, when writing, to mention the town, county, and State you reside in. Nothing can be made out of post-marks. Mrs. C. C. W.-Sent cord and buttons December 13th. Mrs. L. G.-Sent patterns 15th. Mrs. W. L. A.-Sent patterns 15th. Capt. C. W.-Sent pattern and zephyr 17th. Mr. C. D. C.-Sent patterns 19th. J. A. H.-Sent patterns and trimmings 23d. L. B.-Sent pattern 24th. A. M. B.-Sent by Kinsley's express 30th, Dr. A. S. M.—Sent pattern of cloak 5th. Mrs. I. M. S.-Sent sleeve pattern 7th. M. L. R.-Sent hood 16th. L. M. G.-Sent silk and trimmings 16th. Mrs. R.-You may be fat, fair, and forty, and bodlooking. But we do not keep an intelligence office, and cannot therefore procure you a housekeeper's situation. O. H. L.-Could not read your writing. Have not the remotest idea what you want. Miss L. B.-Piercing the ears is not a painful operation. Any respectable female, or your family physician will do it. Miss S. H.-We have not the time at this season of the year to look over back numbers for articles. Mention the number you want, and we will send it. Mrs. V. H. B.-Hair powder, we are sorry to say, is becoming fashionable. At a late wedding in this city the brides wore gold powder in their hair, and the bridesmaids wore silver powder. What next? Ellen. Your question is ridiculous. How should we know anything about what are the first symptoms of love in a young lady? If you had said gentleman, we might have given you our early experience. Miss H. A. V.-We cannot tell you what to do under the circumstances. Be guided by the advice of your mother, if you have one. Conceal nothing from her. Miss W. H. B.-You have mistaken our meaning. We admire crinoline in moderation; but certainly not when it is so extensive that in a small room it knocks over all it comes in contact with. Chemistry for the Young. LESSON XXII.-(Concluded.) The 547. All our experiments on potash and soda have set out with the principle of generating these alkalies from poiassium and sodium. However, you will easily infer this cannot be the method employed in commerce. alkaline metals do not and cannot occur in nature uncombined, their tendency to unite with oxygen is so great. The source of potash is the ashes of land plants. The source of soda, either the ashes of sea-weed or else common salt. We will now go through the exact process for making potash, and will describe the process for making potassium. 548. Put a small fragment of acetate or citrate, or any vegetable salt of potash, upon a slip of platinum foil; apply the heat of a spirit-lamp flame. The vegetable salt of potash, whatever it be, first grows somewhat liquid, and turns black; but finally, on the continued application of heat, it whitens-the white product being curbonate of potash, only differing from ordinary commercial carbonate of potash, termed pearlash, in the circumstance of its being absolutely pure. Now, it may easily be conceived that if this salt of potash, which we have burned on a strip of platinum foil, had been burned within the structural tissue of a vegetable-still carbonate of potash would have resulted. Hence, commercial carbonate of potash is made by steeping the ashes of land plants in water, filtering and evaporating the solution. Perform the experiment on some wood ashes; demonstrate in the filtered liquid the existence of an alkali, by yellow turmeric paper, or reddened litmus paper; or a fixed alkali, by the permanence of the discoloration effected on the test papers; evaporate the solution to a very small bulk, in order to obtain the alkali in a concentrated state. Prove, by means of lime-water (488, 2), the existence of a carbonated alkali. Evaporate another portion to dryness; add an acid-say acetic; mark the effervescence, without any odor of burning sulphur; again dem strative of the presence of a carbonate (419). 549. The first step in the generation of potash, and consequently potassium, is the production of a carbonate from the ashes of land plants. The next step is involved in an operation we have already many times conducted. It is as follows: 550. To a hot solution of carbonate of potash add limewater. Carbonate of lime falls; therefore, potash, minus carbonic acid, and dissolved in water-in other words, liquor potassæ-must remain. By this process, substituting cream of lime (419) for lime-water, is liquor potassæ made. 551. Evaporate liquor potassæ to dryness, and fuse the result, in a silver spoon, over a spirit-lamp flame; pure potash should be the result, but it will be always mixed with a little carbonate of potash, generated by the atmospheric carbonic acid. From this it may be separated by pure alcohol, which readily dissolves potash, but not its carbonate. Evaporate the alcoholic solution, and potash will remain. 552. From potash, which is a compound of potassium and oxygen, potassium may be separated by intensely heating potash, in contact with iron turnings, placed in au iron tube, as illustrated in the following diagram: iron, which latter immediately robs the potash of its oxygen, and liberates potassium into the bottle of naphtha, b. Sodium is prepared in a manner precisely similar, from soda. 553. We will not conclude this part of our subject without going through the experiment of generating that which we believe to be the amalgam of ammonium. Put a globule of sodium into a large test tube of German glass; add an equal volume of mercury, and apply heat. Flame is developed, and the metals unite into an amalgam. Wait until the amalgam has grown cold, then add a concentrated solution of sal ammoniac in water, and agitate. The amalgam increases enormously in bulk, as though it had combined with a metal which it is presumed to have done, i. e. the metal ammonium. We cannot, however, obtain this metal, for, on separating the amalgam from its liquid, and exposing it to the air, ammonia is evolved and mercury alone remains. 551. Step by step we have now concluded that portion of our outline lessons which have reference to chemistry in the abstract. We shall next describe the use of the blowpipe, and an outline of the process of smelting, particularly in relation to silver and gold. Fashions. NOTICE TO LADY SUBSCRIBERS. HAVING had frequent applications for the purchase of jewelry, millinery, etc., by ladies living at a distance, the Editress of the Fashion Department will hereafter execute commissions for any who may desire it, with the charge of a small percentage for the time and research required. Spring and autumn bonnets, materials for dresses, jewelry, envelops, hair-work, worsteds, children's wardrobes, mantillas, and mantelets, will be chosen with a view to economy, as well as taste; and boxes or packages forwarded by express to any part of the country. For the last, distinct directions must be given. Orders, accompanied by checks for the proposed expenditure, to be addressed to the care of L. A. Godey, Esq. No order will be attended to unless the money is first received. Neither the Editor nor Publisher will be accountable for losses that may occur in remitting. The Publisher of the Lady's Book has no interest in this department, and knows nothing of the transactions; and whether the person sending the order is or is not a subscriber to the Lady's Book, the Fashion editor does not know. Instructions to be as minute as is possible, accompanied by a note of the height, complexion, and general style of the person, on which much depends in choice. Dress goods from Evans & Co.'s; mourning goods from Bessou & Son; cloaks, mantillas, or talmas, from Brodie's, 51 Canal Street, New York; bonnets from the most celebrated establishments; jewelry from Wriggens & Warden, or Caldwell's, Philadelphia. When goods are ordered, the fashions that prevail here govern the purchase; therefore, no articles will be taken back. When the goods are sent, the transaction must be considered final. DESCRIPTION OF STEEL FASHION-PLATE FOR MARCH. Fig. 1.-Spring suit of gray alpaca. The skirt has a futing of alpaca sewed in between the dress and facing, The braiding can be done with black braid, or in braid two shades darker than the dress. Corsage plain, with a fluting down the front; belt, with fancy buckle. The talma is of the same material as the dress, and trimmed to match. White silk drawn bonnet, with soft crown, trimmed with plum-colored ribbons. Fig. 2.-Green silk morning-robe, trimmed down the front with a white ribbon sewed on in a Grecian pattern, and covered with a black lace insertion. Corsage made with revers of white silk, edged with black lace. Sleeves trimmed to suit the corsage. Standing linen collar, with green neck-tie and plain chemisette. Fancy muslin cap, trimmed with green and white ribbons. The hair is dressed in one of the new styles. It is crimped, and the right side is rolled carelessly back, caught with fancy side combs, and falls quite low on the neck. The left side of the hair is dressed in a quantity of small frizzed curls. Fig. 3.-Dress of gray summer poplin, with a band of blue silk quarter of a yard deep on the edge of the skirt. The band is richly braided with black braid. Corsage made in the Figaro style, with bands of blue silk braided, which finish at the back with two long ends, also braided. Fluted muslin ruff and blue neck-tie. The hair is rolled off the face, and dressed at the back in a bow, very low on the neck. Fig. 4.-Dress of rich black silk, with a tablier front of purple moiré, bordered on each side with a quilling of black ribbon and a black lace edge. The sleeves are made with an elbow, and trimmed with satin ribbon and lace. The coiffure is of black lace. The hair is rolled off the face on both sides, and is dressed in a bow at the back. On the left side only, a ringlet falls on the shoulder. Fig. 5.-Child's dress of white poplin, trimmed with Magenta silk. Rice straw hat, trimmed with Magenta velvet. Fig. 6.-Home-dress of dark cuir-colored alpaca, trimmed with braiding and black ribbon. A silk quilling is on the edge of the skirt, and is carried up the seam of each breadth for the distance of about half a yard. Black silk point, in front only, five inches deep, which finishes in a sash at the back. Zouave jacket, very short in front, and finishing in a jockey at the back. Fluted ruff and plaited shirt. White muslin cap, with a hanging crown, and trimmed with black lace. A coronet of white lace and towers, also ribbon streamers at the back. The hair is rolled and dressed with steel side combs. FASHIONABLE DRESSES. (See engravings, pages 228, 229.) Fig. 1.-Mode-colored poplin, with a mode silk flounce fourteen inches wide. Corsage pointed behind and before. Sleeves open from the elbow. Black velvet bows down the front of the dress. Fig. 2.-La Vallière brown poplin dress, trimmed with a black pinked flounce, headed by a chicoré ruche. This flounce extends up the front in zigzags. The sleeves are trimmed to match the skirt. Fig. 3.-Dress of dahlia-colored silk. The skirt is trimmed with eight or nine double chicoré ruches, made of black silk, extending to within a quarter of a yard of the bottom of the dress. These ruches are surrounded by two very narrow flounces like the dress. Low corsage, with Marie Antoinette fichu of the same material as the dress. Fig. 4.-Dress of mode-colored reps, with revers on the skirt, trimmed round with quilled ribbon. The openings between the revers are filled in with narrow ruffles either of mode or black silk. A plaiting of reps is on the bottom of the skirt. The plastron of the body and the gauntlet on the sleeves are trimmed with a quilled ribbon. CHITCHAT UPON NEW YORK AND PHILADEL- THE weather continues so cold that Spring Fashions are not yet thought of, and we must defer saying much about them until next month, when we hope to have reliable information respecting them. Crinoline reigns triumphant, and, consequently, skirts are still worn very full. The back breadths are faced with a patent lining, a stiff material to be had of all colors, and which causes the dress to spread very gracefully. The newest hoops which we have seen are from Mme. Demorest's. They are gored, very wide at the bottom, tapering to the waist, so small, indeed, that the hoops fit closely to the figure. Many of the hoops are covered with a white or colored case, on which is buttoned a deep flounce, which may be changed to a white or colored one, as the weather may permit. By adopting this method, a lady may be always well jorponce. Among the latest toilets from Mme. Demorest's, whose styles are always marked by grace and originality, was The skirt of the robe was a cuir-colored taffetas. trimmed with a superb passementerie of lace and jet, sewed on in braids, and edged with a rich tassel-like fringe. The body was plain, finished with two points in front like a vest, and open nearly to the waist, showing the soft lace madonna, simply finished at the throat by a ruching of Valenciennes. A border of the passementerie, without the fringe, was laid flat around the back of the dress, and the same trimming extended down the back of the sleeve, which was shaped to the arm, but left slightly flowing so that an undersleeve was required. Another dress less pretentious, but perhaps more elegant, was a very rich black silk. The skirt was trimmed with a narrow fluting, which was carried round the bottom and up the sides, in the tunic form, to the waist. In the space left between the trimmings were placed rosettes, edged with lace, and with steel centres. An edge of black guipure formed the heading to the fluted border. The body was trimmed with a fluting to imitate a jacket, which it did perfectly. A novelty for morning costume consists of a black silk skirt, over which is worn a robe of plain colored taffetas, open in front, and shorter by six inches than the black skirt. A very fine box-plaited border surrounds the upper skirt, and by a series of shells, unites the two sides of the front. At the same establishment, we learn that the spring trimmings will consist altogether of narrow borders round the bottom of the skirt, sometimes carried up the sides or front. They will be of flat gimps, braiding, guipure, quillings, or stamped velvets. Most of the waists will be made with a plaited or plain jockey at the back. For dinner or evening dress, silks will be made with peasant's waists, with guipures of puffed muslin or illusion fitting closely up to the throat, and with long puffed sleeves close at the wrist. Skirts will be set on with a large box-plait directly in front, and with large gathers at the back, box-plaits being used at the sides. The large gathers have the effect of making the skirt fall more gracefully at the back. Toilets, such as we have described, are very beautiful to look at; but unless worn over a well-made corset, lose much of their effect. The most elegant, and, at the same time, most comfortable corsets, are those made by Mme. Demorest. Quite a novelty in this line appeared in the London Exhibition. It was a corset thoroughly ventilated by innumerable eyelets, and we should think this an excellent invention; for, though absolutely an indispensable accessory to the toilet, they are exceedingly warm. We should think that stout persons would hail this novelty with delight. The fashionable coiffures are now so elaborate that it is almost impossible for a lady to be à la mode, and not wear false hair. The repugnance which was formerly felt at wearing false hair no longer exists; and bows of hair, curls, and braids are purchased as a headdress. To those who have but little hair, or are not skilful in the art of hair-dressing, or have but little time to devote to the toilet, we recommend the bows and chignons now in use, as they can be very readily pinned on without any trouble. On page 593 of the June number, are three styles for dressing the hair, which are now the rage, and will be found both graceful and pretty. Some of the styles, however, are greatly exaggerated, and suited to but few persons. Full crêpe bandeaux, rolls of all descriptions and sizes, frizzed curls, etc. are much worn. We frequently see two or three rolls in front, the upper one very high on the head, and the back hair also arranged in three rolls, very low on the neck. Again we see puffs on top of the head, with bunches of flowers or ribbons directly behind them, also hair brushed over a cushion, and tufts of curls on top of the head, between the bandeaux or rolls. Pearl, gold, silver, and steel powders are exceedingly fashionable, and well suited to these elaborate styles. To some, powder is very becoming, though we do not particularly admire it, and think it will be but a transient fashion. The ordinary gold powder has a very poor effect; but when gold leaf is taken and cut exceedingly fine, and the head powdered with it, the effect is charming. The coiffure Maintenon is one of the new styles. It is arranged with a toufet of short frizzed curls over the top of the head, double bandeaux on each side, sometimes a long ringlet behind the ear, and the back hair arranged in a bow or puffs. Headdresses are worn higher than ever in front. Bunches of ribbon or velvet, the size of two hands clasped together, are placed directly in front, and the larger they are, the handsomer they are considered. Others have a bunch of feathers or flowers over the forehead, and a scarf carried straight over the side of the head and from thence falls on the neck. Small wreaths are also worn on the side of the head. For home wear, lace barbes are arranged with a loop, and end over the plait or roll at the side of the head, and earried over or below the back hair to the opposite side of the head, where they are pinned in a larger bow, and end just behind the ear. Black lace bows with stiff linings are also worn in front between the bandeaux, and when lived with white, are very effective. We pass now to cloaks, which, at Brodie's, are mostly of the talma shape, of medium length, richly trimmed with braiding, passementerie, or lace. Some are confined on the shoulders by two wide folds retained by buttons. It is, however, too early for a great variety of styles, except in opera cloaks, which are really beautiful. Besides the numerous white cloaks made in every variety of style, was one of a black and gold striped velvety material. It was of the sack shape, with a seam down the back, and the stripes meeting in points. The cloak was finished all round with a rich black and gold cord. The hood was lined with a gold-colored silk, and trimmed with handsome cord and tassels. The sleeves were large and turned up with gold-colored silk. Another distingué mantle was of white plush, striped with black. It was also of the sack shape, and trimmed with a bias band of scarlet plush, a quarter of a yard wide, bordered on each edge with a quilled scarlet ribbon. The collar was of scarlet; so also were the revers of the sleeves. For theatre, concert, or opera, bournous, or sacks, with alternate stripes of white, and a bright color, either blue, scarlet, or Magenta, although not new, are quite fashionable. Some are trimmed with ruches of the two colors, sewed on in a pattern; others are bound or bordered with silk, velvet, or plush. For a very elegant wrap, nothing can be more stylish than a lace shawl. Some have white centres, and are trimmed with three rows of lace, the centre one white, and the others black. A black lace shawl, lined with white silk, and trimmed with a deep white silk or chenille fringe, is very distingué. Black lace sashes are very fashionable; the full set, that is, belt, bow, and long ends, can be bought for $26. Bretelles sometimes come with the sets, and are very elegant. Muslin scarfs and bows continue to be worn, also scarfs made of silk a quarter of a yard wide, with the ends ravelled to form a fringe. These scarfs are tied in one bow, and two ends reaching almost from shoulder to shonlder. Children's dresses, instead of having a distinctive character as formerly, are now only their mammas.in miniature. The skirts of their dresses are braided or trimmed with ruches and bands. The waists are zouaves or Garibaldies, or else low and cut square with tucked or embroidered muslin chemisettes to the throat. Alpaca will be one of the fashionable spring materials, and a very pretty dress is of gray, mode, or steel-colored alpaca. The skirt is trimmed round the bottom with a very narrow ruffle of Magenta silk. The bodice is a zouave, trimmed with bands of the silk and chenille fringe. The sleeves are open to the elbow, and trimmed to correspond. A chemisette of white cashmere, embroidered or braided with Magenta, should be worn with the zouave on cold days, and can be replaced by one of white muslin, when the weather is warmer. This is a very pretty street costume, with the addition of a white muslin scarf, tied in a bow uuder the chin. The hat can be of gray straw, with a feather to match ́ the trimming of the dress. Points and sashes are invariably worn by children. The most fashionable wrap for little girls, after leaving off the thick winter sack, will be the Red Riding Hood. This is a talma of red cloth, flannel, or merino, pinked, bound, or trimmed with a quilling. It has a round, drawn-up hood which can be pulled over the head. It is a very convenient wrap for a watering-place, where something of the kind is always needed towards evening. It is also very suitable for infants, and easily made. Nothing new has yet appeared for children's hats; but, by next month, we think the styles will be determined. FASHION. |
