On reaching Steg I found the polo field a mountainous place. This level lawn, as it seemed from the mountains above, mounted sharply from the river and wast full of emerald ravines.

At the spot where the clear Malbun bursts into the valley, a tiny whitewashed chapel almost blocks the narrow exit. For the next half mile this vale is charming in its combination of rock mass and waterfall, of small, green-velvet patches and dense woods.

After a while one turns to the right and arrives at the Malbun kurhaus, a huge chalet of brownish red isolated in a vast amphitheater which furnishes a splendid setting for winter sports. Beyond it is a grassy saucer devoid of trees, but dotted with hay huts and stables. A short climb carries one across into Austria. It was after 3 o'clock, and ten miles of ups and downs filled the zigzag route to Vaduz.

On returning to Sücca, I found the cattle coming home along the hills to the music of soft-toned bells. These cows are from the Triesenberg or even from the Rhine Valley, but between June and September are pastured in the Samina Valley and stabled at Bargella or Sücca.

The milk is sent over the pass each day, an hour and a half to Triesenberg town or even farther. Other cattle graze near Aelple, Gapfahl, and Valüna, but as it is too far to send the milk over the ridge, butter and cheese are made there. While the cows have taken their appetites and chores over the pass, the Triesenberg folk tend their gardens and cut the hay crop. The tactics of having covered the ground before now stood me in good stead. An insignificant climb would bring me to the tunnel; thence the path lay downhill almost all the way. So it was with that cheery feeling of something accomplished and a familiar road that I rested at that homey place while the shadows of the pines slid down the eastern slope.

A tiring scramble along the marvelous trail to Gaflei stirred my senses anew. Never do I remember so pure and clear a light. Seldom have I looked upon such charming scenes as those glimpsed from the path to Gaflei.

Not a touch of the haze which almost hid the Rhine had reached the upper mountain slopes. The red-tiled roof of the memorial church at Balzers was merci

fully veiled, but upon the mountain huts and stables nearer at hand one could count the heavy stones which_hoiu the thick shingles in place.

MAKING HAY ON STEEP SLOPES

All about that steep landscape the people were still making hay. In seemingly inaccessible spots oxcarts and hand-drawn sledges were piled high, and in one place two laughing children came sliding down a steep slope in a hay nest which rapidly increased in size.

At Gaflei some of my fellows of the rough and rugged trail were drinking tall glasses of rich milk. In the dining room, piano and violin were harmonizing pleasantly, and on one of the walls was a rhymed rule of conduct for this often rainy resort nearly a mile above sea level: "Good humor's not rare

When the weather is fair,
But don't play dunce

And lose it in the rain."

The clear evening light on the mountain side lured me by the carriage road to Masescha, one plateau farther down from Gaflei, and to Rothenboden, whence a short route runs to Triesenberg. As I entered the forest below the Vaduz castle and passed the giant beeches, some with funerary crosses, ink-black darkness settled suddenly, as it does when the afterglow dies behind the palm trees in Ceylon.

That last evening was delightful. A motor truck load of men and women poured into the inn just after I had dined, and far into the night they stayed, a jolly party with a clear, untrained soprano and a booming bass standing out from a background of song.

When their big truck roared its “Auf Wiedersehen" to Vaduz, I awoke and heard the singing die away down the moonlit street. They were "Seeing Nellie Home." Thus ended my day in warmhearted Liechtenstein. Already I was a little homesick for the land I would not leave until the morrow.

GILBERT GROSVENOR, President JOHN OLIVER LA GORCE, Vice-President JOHN JOY EDSON, Treasurer HERBERT A. POOLE, Assistant Treasurer

TO carry out the purposes for which it was founded thirty-nine years ago, the National Geographic Society publishes this Magazine. All receipts are invested in the Magazine itself or expended directly to promote geographic knowledge.

ARTICLES and photographs are desired. For material which the Magazine can use, generous remuneration is made. Contributions should be accompanied by an addressed return envelope and postage.

IMMEDIATELY after the terrific eruption of the world's largest crater, Mt. Katmai, in Alaska, a National Geographic Society expedition was sent to make observations of this remarkable phenomenon. Four expeditions have followed and the extraordinary scientific data resulting given to the world. In this vicinity an eighth wonder of the world was discovered and explored- The Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes," a vast area of steaming, spouting fissures. As a result of The Society's discoveries this area has been created a National Monument by proclamation of the President of the United States.

AT an expense of over $50,000 The Society sent a notable series of expeditions into Peru to investigate the traces of the Inca race.

Their

discoveries form a large share of our knowledge of a civilization waning when Pizarro first set foot in Peru. THE Society also had the honor of subscribing a substantial sum to the expedition of Admiral Peary, who discovered the North Pole. NOT long ago The Society granted $25,000, and in addition $75,000 was given by individual members to the Government when the congressional appropriation for the purpose was insufficient, and the finest of the giant sequoia trees of California were thereby saved for the American people.

THE Society is conducting extensive explorations and excavations in northwestern New Mexico, which was one of the most densely populated areas in North America before Columbus came, region where prehistoric peoples lived in vast communal dwellings and whose customs, ceremonies, and name have been engulfed in an oblivion.

a

TO further the important study of solar radiation in relation to long-range weather forecastings, The Society has appropriated $60,000 to enable the Smithsonian Institution to establish a station for four years on Mt. Brukkaros, in Southwest Africa.

N

O CITY in the world has had so much written about it as the Holy City; none is more worthy of description. Fourteen times destroyed; each time has it raised its dignified head in triumph.

The capital of the Land of Three Faiths remains unique, maintaining its position not by towering skyscrapers, Byzantine art, or Roman architecture, but by sheer personality. Centuries of religious fervor, of pilgrimage, of historical event, of great actions, have given it distinction.

Almost as sacred in the eyes of the Moslems as are Mecca and Medina, Jerusalem is a place of pilgrimage for the Moslem world. For the Jewish people it is the City of Cities, toward which their thoughts ever turn. It is the first city Christians hear of at their mother's knee.

THE OLD JERUSALEM AND THE NEW Jerusalem stands upon two hills, with a slope to the east, facing the sunrise and the desert.* Ravines have determined the

*See, also, "Flying Over Egypt, Sinai. and Palestine: Looking Down Upon the Holy Land During an Air Journey of Two and a Half

limits of the city on the east, south, and west. Northward the country is more open and the ancient city tended to sprawl in this direction. To-day the old, graywalled city of minarets, towers, and flat roofs dotted with domes is being encompassed by a New Jerusalem, a striking contrast of red roofs, but the valleys on its three sides still keep the modern encroachments at a respectful distance.

In Palestine all roads lead to the capital. The south road, from Beersheba, Hebron, and Bethlehem, joins the city at the Jaffa Gate. Toward the northwest corner of the city wall runs the road from the sea at Jaffa. At the Damascus Gate ends the great north highway, from Nablus, Nazareth, and Damascus. Toward the northeast corner, past the Garden of Gethsemane, the serpentine trail climbs the Judean Hills from Jericho and the Dead Sea, attaining a height of 2,600 feet above sea level, from 1,300 feet below, in about a score of miles.

Hours from Cairo to Jerusalem." by Brigadier General P. R. C. Groves and Major J. R. McCrindle, in the NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE for September, 1926.