BUILDING A YURT FOR THE EXPEDITION'S USE The scientists have stopped at a small Chinese military post on the edge of the Tekes Valley near Muzart Pass. The mountains are the southern range of the Tien Shan. FILLING WATER CASKS AT A WELL IN THE DESERT Though the desert of rock and sand is waterless, the water level is only six feet below the surface here. The water is dipped from the well into the broad tanks for passing caravans. were wide alkali plains, where the hardened crust had an appearance of broken ice cakes. The deepest point is 980 feet below sea level; our elevation was approximately 910 feet where we turned north to reach the city of Turfan. The depression is a wide valley, 70 miles in length by 30 in width. From the bottom one looks north to the Bogdo-ola peaks (see, also, map, page 374), more than 12,000 feet in height. The proximity of the depression to these mountain masses causes violent winds at times, and it was noticeable that sand drifted only on the southern sides of the rocks and small eminences. Near the edges of the depression are many series of wells which follow underground streams of water, and which have been dug to depths of fully 50 feet with infinite pains, apparently to locate the subsurface flows. Although there are tremendous alkali beds here, the water which flows in these underground streams is sweet and drinkable. Near the lowest point of the depression is a small lake of strongly alkali water which has no outlet, evaporation taking care of whatever moisture reaches it. Beyond Turfan the cart road leads through rocky defiles three marches to Tihwafu, the capital of Chinese Tukestan, and more Chinese than other cities of Sinkiang. Like all cities in the interior of China and the Chinese portions of those in Turkestan, it is surrounded by a high wall. The city gates are closed at sunset and travelers arriving at night must remain outside until after sunrise, when the gates are opened (page 420). A REMOTE RADIO STATION We again found an excellently built and well-operated radio station and were able to send messages to the outside world, for it talks with Mukden, in Manchuria, and with Kashgar to the south. There is also a telegraph wire connecting Peking with Tihwafu and Kashgar, though it is out of service much of the time. As we rode along this telegraph line, it was easy to see why the service is irregular. Less than half of the poles have insulators, and where an insulator is broken the wire is either nailed or tied to the pole. We were guests of Mr. Cavaliere, the Chinese postal commissioner for Turkestan, and through his assistance we arranged for the governor's aid in procuring camels later at Kuchengtze. The commissioner also helped us replenish food supplies and engaged our transport east. There is a colony of 200 Russians in the capital. At our request the Soviet consul gave us a letter of introduction to his colleague at Kobdo, in Mongolia. He said it would also be of service should we not go to Kobdo, but travel more directly eastward. We could learn little regarding Mongolia, for since the revolution there has been almost no trade between Turkestan and that country; nor could the Chinese give us any assistance beyond the frontier, their authority in Mongolia having long since ceased. THE "TELEGA" IS A CRUDE VEHICLE On the 11th of October we continued east toward Kuchengtze, using telegas for transportation of kit; we traveled beside these small, four-wheeled vehicles on horseback (see page 419). In contrast with the 8-foot gauge of the lumbering arabas previously used (see text, page 390), the telega has a gauge of three feet. When we first examined these little vehicles, we felt doubtful that they would ever reach Kuchengtze. They were crudely constructed, rope and wire holding them together at vital parts, with wooden pegs used in place of bolts. Three small horses, hitched abreast, pulled each cart. We were even more skeptical that these animals could travel the 150 miles in three days, as the drivers had promised. Not only did they do so, however, but they arrived in Kuchengtze at the end of the third day apparently traveling as easily as at the outset ! From here the road follows the northern slopes of the snowy Bogdo-ola, the local name for a portion of the northern range of the Tien Shan. Part of the way leads through irrigated areas and cultiva tion. Hereabout we saw many evidences, in the abandoned farms and villages, of the results of an uprising in Turkestan some years ago. The natives drove out the THIS GREAT BASIN LIES BELOW THE LEVEL OF THE SEA The Turfan Depression, which is, with the exception of the shores of the Dead Sea, the deepest place on the earth's surface not covered by water. THE PONY CART "EXPRESS" LEAVING TIHWAFU Telegas are used for fast travel along the north slopes of the Tien Shan. Most roads are fairly level, so these small vehicles make good time. TIHWAFU IS WALLED IN WITH MUD Travelers arriving at night at the gates in this long wall must remain outside until sunrise before they are permitted to enter the capital of Chinese Turkestan. Tihwafu (Urumchi) has radio communication with Mukden, in Manchuria, and with Kashgar, to the south (see, also, text, page 417). |