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COOK'S MATE FREDDY AND SEA-COOK WILLIAM LABOR TO FEED HUNGRY SCIENTISTS The galley was scarcely larger than a bandbox, and in the Tropics it was as much an oven as the big Shipmate range, so that much of the culinary work was done on deck.

and then down into a blue-green valley where but little wind could reach her.

FISHING FOR THE ALBATROSS

One day, as in Coleridge's poem, an albatross crossed our wake and followed, to pick food thrown over from the galley garbage. We had no crossbow aboard with which to shoot it, and even if we used our guns we couldn't bring the ship about and pick it up. So Long John and William baited a large shark-hook with a slab of pork fat and trolled a stout line far astern. Bits of troll bait were cast in the wake of the ship, as she climbed easily up one side of a sea and slid smoothly down the other.

The albatross picked up floating bits with scarcely a pause, as it eased down close to the water, snatching its food with. a flick of its powerful hooked bill and slapping the sea with a broad-webbed

foot. The quick recovery of its speed was marvelous; it would leave the reaching comber of a giant wave behind and sweep alongside the plunging Blossom. Men who had never seen an albatross in flight draped themselves over the lazy bench and across the dory strongback to watch the bird beat back and forth on the powerful spread of its 10-foot wings, which always seemed rigid in its gliding flight.

Some of the seamen were distinctly uneasy, swearing we would be trailed by disaster if we killed the bird that made the breeze blow fair. But William, unafraid of the albatross hoodoo, kept at his fishing and eventually had the satisfaction. of seeing the big bird take a great mouthful of bait and hook.

A quick jerk fastened the hook in the horn of the bill, and a clarion of triumph. awoke even the men asleep below. Soon

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That's one too many, for there were only two under the Blossom's quarter, as Moses pulled on his line and Cuyler made ready to drive home the lily-iron.

the fowl of the Ancient Mariner stood on deck, alive and entirely uninjured, though like its fellows caught during the next few days, it became quite seasick from the motion of the ship! Thus we obtained some of our rarest specimens, but many of the birds which we wanted for our collection would not take the hook, so we planned to pursue these in the whaleboat. In spite of winds and seas, the boat was made ready with well-filled water butt and sealed tins of hard-tack as emergency rations in case she should become separated from the ship; then we bided our time.

One raw, blizzardy day the rare little white-bellied storm petrel was sighted astern. All about it were cape pigeons, cape hens, the whaler's Nelly, or giant petrel, together with an occasional ghost petrel or an albatross.

Cuyler and his men grabbed their shotguns and leaped into the boat as it hung

from the davits; Long John took the tiller at the cry to lower away.

We had no time to brace the sails into the wind and stop the momentum of the ship; so we chanced it, with the powerful wind whoo-whooing in the rigging. Vanzetti and I paid out the line, and the whaleboat slapped the sea.

For a moment it looked as if the men would be poured into the foaming brine. The davit falls caught and the boat was towed along with the ship and slapped against her side. The painter was hauled taut and the falls were cleared as John yelled; in another instant the whaleboat was free, whirling far astern of the Blossom.

This and succeeding whaleboat cruises resulted in many interesting specimens being shot and brought aboard, but always these excursions occasioned apprehension, for the boat always got away with difficulty, was only occasionally visible when

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DAVY JONES'S WOLF SLAPS THE SHIP WITH HIS TAIL The ship's cook howled with glee as the lily-iron was driven into the fearsome shark which had followed the schooner for a day and a night.

balanced for a second on the crest of a distant wave, and returned after many anxious hours, when we wondered whether boat and ship would ever meet again. To men in an open boat 1,500 miles from land, it is no laughing matter to see one's ship disappearing, as if sunk into one of the foam-dappled valleys of the sea.

By this means nearly 50 albatrosses of four species were collected, including one of the large snowy variety; several spectacled ones or mollymawks, and more than a score of the yellow-nosed, with a blaze of chrome down the top of their dark bills.

One of the commoner wandering albatrosses, caught from the deck with hook and line, was banded, on the chance that some other ship might recapture it. In a bottle on its neck we placed a brief history of that famous bird mentioned by Dr. Frank M. Chapman, which was bottled December 8, 1847, by the whaler Euphrates in latitude 43° S., longitude 148° 40′ W., and recovered 12 days later,

3,400 miles away, by the famous whaler Cachelot, at 45° 50' S. and 78° 27′ W.

BIRDS TOO BIG FOR A LITTLE SHIP

The "stuffed" albatross specimens were so large that we faced a serious storage problem. The difficulty was solved by swinging on deck a huge whaling cask and packing the birds in it. John, with his cask tools and dried flag leaves, headed the cask and made it water-tight for storage in the damp hold of the ship. One of our crew, an ex-rumrunner, suggested we might finance another expedition by inserting several bottles of Scotch or a magnum of champagne into each albatross before sewing it up.

But Cuyler and I were less interested. in the present or future contents of the albatross skins than we had been in the meat which they once contained. Not only had we slain the albatross and skinned it into the bargain, but we had eaten it. In the absence of fresh meats aboard, we jumped at the chance to fry small cutlets from the breast of the Ancient Mar

Photograph by Geo. Finlay Simmons
DIPPING OVERBOARD AFTER THE SHARK'S PILOT

Practically every shark encountered on the high seas was accompanied by small sucker-fish (see illustration, page 41) and beautiful little banded shark-pilots.

iner's bird, and we found them so delicious that we tried stews, hashes, chili con carne, and even braised and boiled albatross. The meat was tender and well flavored, and especially tempting was the breast of the yellow-nosed variety. Gourmets may envy.

The crew, however, could never get over its superstition and repugnance at the thought of eating the albatross. They ate their salt meats and dried fish and pitied us.

Thus did we sail for more than a month in the direction of the southern tip of Africa; then turned northward around the imaginary corner of Greenwich and

30° S., and along the path of the old clipper ships and the East Indiamen, rolling down toward the island of St. Helena.

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AN EMPEROR'S ISLAND
OF EXILE

Early one morning we stood on the deck of our easily rolling craft, feet spread to meet the swing of the quartering seas, and saw the mistenshrouded mountains. and heights of St. Helena materialize through openings in the morning's curtain of haze. Bleak, bare, upstanding it was, as we approached it under shortened canvas. "What a terrible place to be sent to for a number of years!" exclaimed one of our officers.

He had scarcely spoken when the sun broke through and the whole top of the island appeared blanketed with a green whose varying shades indicated brush, bush, and forest scattered sparsely over cultivated and well-grazed

plateaus and mountain tops.

"It appears very interesting to me," said Vanzetti, our Venetian navigator. "I had not realized that there was so much green on top of the island. I wonder if that is Longwood, Napoleon's home, there on the high northern end of the island?" (p. 55).

Tiny gray and white specks, perched on a lofty, verdant plateau, resolved into small houses and outbuildings, under the power of the ship's glasses. Even the sailors wanted to bend over the chart outspread on the cabin roof, to identify Flagstaff Hill, 2,290 feet high; Halley's Mount, 2,467 feet, where Edmund Halley carried on astronomical observations; and

the crest of the island, a semicircular sweep 2,700 feet above the sea, once the rim of a gigantic crater, which blew out toward the sea and left a beautiful valley, the Sandy Bay country, on the windward side of St. Helena (page 57).

It is impossible from the sea to distinguish the three classic summits of this ridge, but we were to find on climbing them that Diana's Peak is higher than either Cuckold or Actæon.

AN ISLAND WITH ITS OWN HISTORY

What an enchanting place to be situated so far out in the South Atlantic, as if forgotten-a Flying Dutchman of of an island, which many have seen from the decks of passing ships, but at which few ever touch! It is indeed a lovely emerald among the bewildering jewels of the British Crown, with a history all its own. Green, fertile, lovely, and capped by the peak of Diana the Huntress, it stands in splendid isolation, sur

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Photograph from Geo. Finlay Simmons ANCIENT MARINERS THOUGHT THIS LITTLE FISH COULD HOLD

BIG SHIPS

The author displays the shark-sucker, which in olden times was said to lay hold of sailing craft and keep them from moving, even when strong winds blew. Sailors formerly watched the sucker-fish; when it was seen to anchor itself to a stone, they made ready for a storm.

rounded by forbidding cliffs which rise a thousand feet above a fisherman's paradise.

It was a hundred years after the memorable first voyage of Columbus that Englishmen learned of the great wealth to be derived from the India trade; and here, on the island of St. Helena, in 1651, the English East India Company established its great way station. By charter from Charles II in 1661, the company assumed a control over the island which lasted for nearly two centuries. The island plantations were cultivated with

slave labor; and fresh vegetables and meat animals were provided for the ships which touched here on the voyages between England and India.

The monopoly of the Indian trade by the East India Company was abolished in 1813, with the result that there was a sudden growth of shipping and competition. The China tea clippers, queens of the oceans, began to touch at the island for supplies as they raced home from the typhoon seas.

For six years St. Helena was the home of the exiled Napoleon, who was brought

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