ONE OF THE GATES TO TONGSA JONG (SEE PAGES 432 AND 433)

"It is a delightfully easy method of praying, and some enormous wheels have been erected. One at Lamteng, in the Lachen Valley in Sikkim, contains no less than four tons of printed paper, and measures about 9 feet in height by 4 feet in diameter" (see text, pages 419-421).

Nothing could have been more picturesque than our camping-ground at Byagha. The view everywhere, both up and down the valley, was lovely. Dr. Griffith 70 years previously had written: "The country was very beautiful, particularly in the higher elevations. And at this season, to add to the beauty, primulas, in flower in myriads, clothed whole glades in delicate violet, while above rhododendrons flamed in gorgeous scarlet." He adds: "We saw scarcely any villages, and but very little cultivation."

In direct contradiction to this, I noticed that whole hillsides were being cultivated up to at least 11.000 feet, and I was so struck by the difference that I