Nowhere is this proverb more true than in the case of the ouled nails, for they enhance their somewhat scanty natural charms by carefully adorning themselves to the utmost. They affect the gayest of colors and a profusion of jewels; they mix their hair with wool and plaster it with grease, forming great braids, which they loop down over their ears, framing their faces, as it were, in ebony. HERE AND THERE IN NORTHERN AFRICA They build, with great care, water-tight cisterns, for wells and springs are not at all frequent in this country, and rain water is greatly valued for drinking purposes. In some parts there is actually not enough spare water even to brush one's teeth, and I do not believe the animals ever get sufficient to drink. This condition has naturally led to the introduction of a breed of animals that can live fairly well on very little water. Last May Brebisch and Mohammed took me to a Troglodyte town perched on the top of a table-land, and here in the bowels of the earth I saw a huge mosque, with great Gothic-like arches carved out of massive rock. Besides having caves Besides having caves in the rocks, they had skyscrapers made of rhofas (artificial caves of hardened. mad) superposed one upon another to a height of from 8 to 12 stories. Wild-looking Troglodytes, fully armed, were guarding this stronghold when we rode up, but as the Cadhi was known and greatly loved by my companions, we received a warm welcome. I was stupidly induced to climb to the top of the rhofas to see the remarkable panorama. It seems to me that at last the missing link has been found, for certainly no beings ever climbed as agilely, except monkeys, as did these Troglodytes. The climbing up was far more simple than the coming down. I longed to be a member of that curious brotherhood of the Aissaiouas that jump from great heights without hurting themselves. The little stone steps put in here and there had been worn by centuries of use until they sloped downward and projected only about three or four inches, so one could hardly get a foothold. Undressing as much as I could, throwing my shoes and clothes to the ground, and praying to Allah to guard me in the perilous moments, I descended as best I could, slowly and painfully, but finally in safety. There is wild excitement in going over an unknown country and not being sure whether one can bring up at the right place before dark. Heat, thirst, and danger are forgotten in the glorious landscape, with its iridescent colors. Mohammed and Brebisch were most picturesque, with their great straw hats, 19 about four feet in diameter (see photo, page 5), decorated with embroidered gazelle leather, creamy white silken bernouses waving in the wind, and the gaily colored trappings of the Arab saddle and bridle, with solid silver mountings and massive silver stirrups. Mohammed was mounted on a dark-gray Arabian stallion, and Brebisch rode a pure white horse, about five years old and full of spirit. Each boy carried shotguns and pistols. They did not care where they went and would never take a dare. It was useless to caution them. They would reply that Allah would take care of them, and he certainly did. Brebisch was always humming a weird tune in a minor key, and good-natured, no matter what happened. In this part of the country messages are sent by runners, very thin, strong, wiry men, without an ounce of fat, who think nothing of a 30-mile run before breakfast. We usually paused on our journey before the sun became too hot, and ate lunch in the cool of a Troglodyte cave. The lunch always consisted of cous-cous (native wheat prepared so that it looks like fine grains of rice), with vegetables when they were to be had-there were never any here-and steamed with a lamb or an entire sheep, cooked whole. One of my favorite dishes was chuckchucks, made of fried eggs, cooked with oil, and dried red peppers. The bread was always excellent-made of barley or millet. There were always quantities of dried dates at a meal. THE DANCE OF THE HAIR One evening Brebisch came in, all excitement, and said that we were to attend a betrothal ceremony about 9 o'clock. Walking down by the light of the full moon, we were guided directly to the place by the shrill sounds of the native bagpipes and tom-toms (a species of drum), that were making a fearful din. In the courtyard of a large fonduk (or inn) were gathered together a motley array of Arabs. Sudanese, Berbers, Touaregs, and weird creatures, dressed in the skins of small animals, with frightful, grinning masks, and bones and skulls dangling here and there. They were the dancers from Timbuktu, and were mak |