the Atlantic entirely covered those vast arches. The guide pointed out one unfathomable gulf, as he described it, where the heavy dull waves passing through can be heard on a still night at Glin! The whole shore is deeply indented, and each of those small bays differs from the rest in formation and character. High above them, many hiding-places of smugglers were shewn to us in places which seemed inaccessible.

Having followed the coast for some miles, we returned by a shorter route to the place from which we set out; and on the brow of a hill crowned with the old ruined castle, we spread out the eatables which we had taken with us in the carriage. A woman living in the vicinity had boiled some potatoes, which she brought up the hill to us in a huge iron pot. After this gipsy-like repast, we returned to Glin Castle, where we arrived to a late dinner, turning our backs with regret upon the estuary of that magnificent river, the course of which we had followed for two days. In a pamphlet relative to this river, published by C. W. Williams, Esq., the Shannon is said to be unequalled in the

coast.

British empire, embracing 234 miles of continuous navigation, and from the circumstance of its running through the centre of the kingdom, it may be compared, for purposes of intercourse, to double that length of It washes the shores of ten counties out of thirty-two, all abundant in population, and susceptible of receiving great extension and improvement in their agriculture. These facts are indicative of what might be done through the instrumentality of this one river.

CHAPTER V.

EXCURSION TO THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY.

"When stung to despair, in their wildness, what wonder
If sometimes their souls from affection might rove!
That frenzy subsiding, their feelings the fonder,
Will seek their own halcyon channel of love?

"Let the past be forgotten! Yet shalt thou, fair Erin, Fling off the base spells which thy spirit enslave; Thou shalt, like the sea-bird, awhile disappearing, Emerge with thy plumage more bright from the wave."

many

kind and press

NOTWITHSTANDING the ing invitations that we received to prolong our visit, we quitted Glin with much regret, on the 20th May, and travelled that evening, twenty-eight miles to Tralee, and from thence, the following morning, to Killarney. Nothing could exceed the extreme civility and obliging conduct of all the Irish post-boys and coachmen, or drivers, with whom we had anything to do. They would often stop,

or turn round to direct our attention to remarkable objects; and I had reason to be indebted to the great anxiety evinced by one, that the very enchanting view of the first approach to Killarney should not be lost upon us. It was a close calm summer's day. There was a peculiar softness in the scenery; and the effect of light and shade on the Kerry mountains which lay directly before us was particularly fine. Captain H., the son of the Rector of K., to whom we were introduced at Glin, and whose infancy and boyhood had been spent amongst the attractive scenery of Killarney, and his maturer years in scientific investigations connected with its lakes and mountains, had kindly offered to accompany us, and initiate us into its beauties. Having breakfasted at the hotel, he went to order a boat to be in readiness, and shortly after returned to us, equipped in a sailor's dress. A walk of a mile brought us to the edge of the lower lake, at Ross Castle, which stands on an island of the same name containing some mines of lead and copper. We obtained a fine view from the ruined walls; but were too impatient to remain there long, so that

we were soon seated in the boat, which was in readiness to receive us.

The rocks in the lower lake are worn into many fanciful shapes. A perpendicular one, thirty feet above the water, is called O'Donohoe's prison, a mere barren rock, yet out of its fissures grow the arbutus, ash, and holly. But if the reader be unacquainted with the wild legends of Killarney, he ought to be informed that the Giant O'Donohoe used to cause his most obstinate enemies to be chained on this rock, and there to perish by cold and famine, till they acknowledged his authority. Of course, he still haunts the spot, says the legend, and may often be seen moving on the surface of the waters with his snow white steed.

Innisfallen, on which we first landed, is a lovely island, a scene of rich luxuriance and tranquillity; such perfect tranquillity! It seemed

"As if the gen'ral pulse

Of life stood still, and nature made a pause;"

though there could have been but little pause in her more secret operations, for the arbutus and holly grow to an extraordinary