manded, and the perpetual decree stands fast.

Leaving the cavern, we returned to the cottage in order to procure some boxes of mineralogical specimens ; and from thence to Bushmills, where dinner had been provided for us. We then removed with our luggage to a small cottage where passengers generally awaited the arrival of the packet. A handsome young woman, without shoes or stockings, was cooking potatoes in an immense cauldron over the fire; whilst two or three particularly pretty children were playing about. She seemed greatly distressed, that the little parlour was already occupied by two gentlemen, who were dining on broiled salmon and potatoes. They proved to be Irish officers of the Eighty-sixth, who were waiting like ourselves, for the arrival of the Glasgow packet. In less than a quarter of an hour, they came out, and invited us into the state apartment, politely apologizing for having been the means of excluding us from it so long. They were very gentlemanly men, with much conversational talent, which they exerted in an agreeable and rational manner,

but my head ached dreadfully, after so long a day's exposure to the rough wind and weather; and nothing more comfortable presented itself in this little cabin apartment, than a few small, and very upright-backed wooden chairs; so that after conversing with our new acquaintances for a short time, we gladly went out to vary the scene; but on the lonely and desolate shore, with our feet sinking deeply into the sand at every step, there was nothing sufficiently attractive to beguile the excessive sense of fatigue and weariness that oppressed me; so we sought the sheltered side of a vast rock, from which the tide had receded, and which offered a sort of large arm-chair recess, as if hollowed out for the purpose by artificial means. There with my aching head resting on my kind brother's shoulder, I slept, notwithstanding the howling of the wind; and no rest that I had ever enjoyed before, seemed so grateful, no slumbers so sweet, as on that occasion! and never did the prophet's figurative description of the preciousness of Christ's salvation to the believer, come more vividly home to my heart, "And a man shall be as a hiding

M

place from the tempest, as the shadow of a great rock in a weary land."

About five o'clock, the shrill voices of four or five women proclaimed that the steamer was in sight. Away we all ran to an elevated point on the shore, the baggage being hastily caught up by the different individuals present, for no time was to be lost. But in vain were our signals made, and efforts used to shew how many passengers wished to go on board; the prognostications of the boatmen were verified, that the vessel would be afraid to venture near so dangerous a coast in such a gale; and with desponding countenances, we saw her bear away towards Scotland, at about six miles distance from the land. I speak of momentary regret, because the hours of waiting had been so tedious ; but we had much greater reason to be thankful for the disappointment; as even the sailors coolly expressed their doubts whether a boat could have reached the vessel in safety.

What was to be done? There was no house anywhere near at which we could pass the night; and there was no certainty that a

carriage could be procured nearer than Coleraine. However, a messenger was despatched to Bushmills and after a long vexatious delay, the rattling of wheels sounded like sweet music in our ears, and we all returned in a car to Miss Henry's hotel, at Coleraine. The kind landlady expressed great joy at seeing us again, and I must acknowledge that the pleasure was mutual, as we anticipated the quiet refreshment of a night's repose under her comfortable roof, instead of being tossed through the hours of darkness on a stormy

sea.

CHAPTER IX.

"On Lough Neagh's banks, as the fisherman strays,
When the clear cold eve's declining,

He sees the round towers of other days,
In the waves beneath him shining."

MOORE'S IRISH MELODIES.

THE morning beamed upon us in tranquil loveliness. No traces remained in the atmosphere of the storm of the preceding day; and soon after breakfast we were again in motion. Near Antrim we turned out of the direct road, in order to drive through Lord O'Neill's park, which extends along one end of the shore of Lough Neagh. The lake is about twenty miles long, and fifteen broad; and is said to cover an area of about 98,000 acres, its circumference being above eighty miles. It lies in the centre of the province of Ulster, being bounded by five counties, and is about thirty feet above the level of